Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Hickoryswitch on December 27, 2008, 03:14:13 pm
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Here is my hick bow I was askin Q's about. It's 62" ntn 50 lbs @26". She bends alot right outa the fades but it only has 14" of workin limb. Please give me your feed back guys. Be honest it makes me a better bow maker. Thanks everyone.
Wayne
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Dont know what happened....but half of the Pictures only D/Loaded halfway???
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my internet is messing up I'll try again later. I was afraid that happened.
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full draw.
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Nice Wayne....but I would sure try to get the center third of them Limbs bending a bit.....could save this Bow from Imminent Destruction......JMO........not trying to be crude....just been my experience that if the Limbs do all of their Bending in the Fades.....they are destined to Self Destruct........... :-\
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WOW! In that first pic. the camo. sure is good I can't see it at all. LOL. ;D
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If I make it bend About another 5 inches up do you think that would help? Thats about all the limb I have left till I get to where it is narrowed. You know pictures really let you see how a bow is bending. Cause I didn't think it was quite that bad On the tree Especially that upper limb. Thanks.
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Yeah Badbill I can think my internet for that. It was givin me fits trying to post these pics.
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Can anyone give me an idea the signs this bow will give if it's gonna fail? So far it has about 150 shots through it and still shows no sign of set. Not doubting you destructo just wantin to know what kind of signs to look for.
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a loud cracking noise and pieces of wood flying every where
that would be a definate sign of it failing lol :o
sorry i just couldnt resist,i am feeling kinda like a smart a*& tonight
i have a boo/hick r/d that does most of the work out of the fade on the bottomg limb,like your bow does. after about 200-250 shots i could see chrysalling developing
the more i shoot it the worse it seems to be getting,so i havent even finished the bow.
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Ok i started retillering yesterday and worked on it a little more this morning. I think i have it close but I'll post another pic in the tomorrow to get yalls opinion. I also flipped the tips a little to get some weight back. I left my tillering tree and stick at work where I was makin another bow. So I've had to improvise and use a door knob as my tree. Works but you can't see the bow real well.
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I'm not sure one should arbitrarily a) regard a particular tiller (shape) as deficient based upon a photo or two b) act upon that observation.
If the bow ain't taking set, is shooting good with mild handshock and good cast, is fairly easy to find an arrow spine to fly well, then a lot of bend near the handle isn't necessarily a bad thing. One simply needs to explore his objectives, alternatives and then come to a design decision, in as much as his stave will let him pursue it. And where this is conflict, the stave always wins. But in this case, I didn't read anything that said the first tiller was in any way flawed, other than the look of it. Not saying that shape is necessarily optimum in most cases, rather that it's not necessarily flawed either.
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I love that tiller, as long as the working sections of the limb are wide enough and your tips are light. Can you give us dimensions and stats?
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
As far as signs of impending doom, I wish there was a clear way to tell. Set is a good indicator with most wood...if it's taking a lot of set then there is too much stress on the wood somewhere.
The best signs that bow that is about to break is when you get the desire to let someone else pull it back....or when you get really attached to the bow. ;)
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I will reserve judgement until I see a unbraced and front view profile picture, a full draw picture
is nice but its only half the story :)
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Here is it after a little re-tillering. Got it bending a bit more mid limb and flipped the tips a little. Brought it back to weight which made me real happy. It still aint perfect but this is the shortest bow I've made. Also the first with narrowed tips.
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Dimension wise Upper limb is a hair over 1 1/2" wide until tips narrow' lower limb is a hair under 1 5/8" wide till tips narrow. It's awfully narrow for this shape and length but thats what the whole experiment was about. I kinda wanted to see how good hickory really was. So far still no set. Follows the string about 1/2" just unstrung and returns completely after about 15 mins. Still seems real fast but that might just be me hoping. Reflexed at handle then deflexs about 2 inches and tips are about 1/2" or so in front of handle.
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That looks really nice. I'll bet it draws smooth late in the draw. Jim
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I see you went with a sort of a homegaard profile, in that case from where the limb narrows(at the wrap) on out
you want it stiff which it is, all the bend should be from the fades to the stiff section with the a fairly even bend so the stress
is spread out over the most wood as possible, looks like it could bend a little more into the fades but then again hickory is tough
stuff and if your happy with it thats what matters the most. Thanks for posting a front view picture would still like to see a unbraced side view picture though :)
Well done eh :)
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"So far still no set. Follows the string about 1/2" just unstrung and returns completely after about 15 mins. Still seems real fast but that might just be me hoping. Reflexed at handle then deflexs about 2 inches and tips are about 1/2" or so in front of handle."
If it is not much changed from it's profile before any tillering was started, you did a great job. A shorter bow wants to work more toward the center, to preserve string angle. 1 1/2" of hickory is a butt load, for that lenght and draw weight. I'd say it's a fine bow, and that some tweaking to remove mass where possible from the outer limbs will pay big dividends. Also bear in mind hickory works beautifully at the low humidity levels we enjoy during winter. Not so well when it's 90 degrees and 90% Rh this July. I'd expect you could loose 4# or 5# of draw weight, and see another 1/2 of set in that environment, if what you currently have is inside of 35% Rh sustained.
Great job. More pics. Generally one wants to see a profile shot, showing the set, both before and after work. Also a width profile shot so we can see where the limb tapers. Also a braced shot and a full draw shot. I usually like to see the outer limbs and string grooves, and handle wrap, arrow pass, fades as well just for cosmetics and somewhat to assess performance.
Thanks for posting your project.
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I'll try to get some more pics this afternoon.