rawhide backing vs. green stave ?'s

[whitewoodshunter]

I have an ironwood stave that is still drying. The bark is removed and the bow roughed out and floor tllered to about 5 inches would it be ok to add a rawhide backing now.The back is riddled with small pin knots all along the back. I left the sapwood on the stave. as it was a sapling.

[knightd]

 If it is still green and wet wait. but if it has been drying for a little while I would say go ahead and back it!! Pull in a little reflex..

[George Tsoukalas]

When I back a bow I install the backing after floor tillering and long string tillering which is prior to the bows first bracing.  Jawge

[whitewoodshunter]

The wood has been cut for 13 days and been stored inside in the heat. I even dried it a little with a heat gun.

[knightd]

how long has it been roughed out?? Either way it should be fine to back it..

[DanaM]

When you say Ironwood I assume your referring to Hophornbean or Hornbeam, either is a whiewood and as such just peel the bark and
thats your back. Why do you feel a rawhide backing is necessary? A few pin knots shouldn't jeopardize the back. What style of bow are you looking to make?
Length, draw length and weight, D bow or rigid handle? Lots of variables I wouldn't back it yet until you decide on what the design will be.

[whitewoodshunter]

 Oh it is hophornbeam. I was hoping for a 66 inch rigid handle 60 # at 26. But the back looks like a porcupine, no joke here are knots every half inch.And its not to wide, only about a inch and a half.

[Pat B]

1 1/2" wide and 66" long is plenty for a 60#@26" bow. Unless you violated the grain on the back the pins shouldn't hurt anything. Actually the wood(branch collar) around the pins is stronger by nature. the porcupine look on the back will be good camo.  You got any pics to share?
   Pat

[DanaM]

I would leave it unbacked if as Pat said the back isn't violated. But thats just me