Take down sleeves with backings?

[tommy6]

Does anyone have any experience using take down sleeves with a bamboo backing?
I did a search and came up with nothing. The best advice I could get on other sites was to splice it instead (Billets).
The thing is, I have osage and ipe billets and bamboo just begging to be made into a takedown. The wood is telling me what to do and Im powerless to fight it. I have the sleeves (small D shaped from Kustom King). Whats a bowyer to do?

[sailordad]

ifn you could get the sleeve to fit over the boo backing without damaging the integrity of the boo power fibers i would think that you could do it
never tried it myself

what the heck,give it a try and let the rest of know if it works and remember lots of pics because we cant learn from you or you from us
with out something to look at


                                                                              peace,
                                                                                     tim

[mullet]

  I think I would splice and glue them. Then saw it in two where you need to fit the pieces of the take-down sleeve. I don't think you would have a problem scraping the bamboo to fit. It is a lot tougher than people give it credit and when it is in the sleeve it will be covered in epoxy.

[jkekoni]

Take down sleaves are compatible with bamboo backings.

You need plane to power fibres flat inside the handle. This is no problem in the non bending part of the handle, but is problem in the bending part.
A friend of mine has done this succesfully.

I assume it would also be possible to use carbosil (or antler dust) and epoxy mix to fil gap between bamboo and the inner tube.

[tommy6]

My biggest concern was having to take down the backside of the bamboo and possibly weakening it where the bamboo back meets the top and bottem edges of the sleeve. Thats a potential area of creating a blowout. I have never done anything to the backside of boo before except to sand down the nodes some.
The plan of attack than would be to plane the front side of the boo to about 1/8 of an inch, glue the backing to the billets keeping the tips wide and try to reduce the belly and sides to fit in the sleeves. Ifn I have to I could sand/ file the boo back a wee bit.
Well this is gonna be a tuff one, I should be finishing it up in time for spring Turkey season!

[mullet]

     It will be a non-working handle so there shouldn't be any stress on the boo. Just take off enough to fit the handle.

[tommy6]

I did some initial measurements and kind of eyeballed how it should go together. The osage is 1" thick and the sleeve is 1 5/16".  with the boo down at 1/8" that will leave a gap of 3/16" if I glue a 1/8" osage shim to the belly side that will give a 1/16" space which shold be accounted for by the glue ups.
Mullett when you initially wrote to splic the billets add the backing and than saw the stave in half, I was like "Why the heck would I go to all that trouble?" But now I see the wisdom in it. It sur would be easier to line up that way. I could also than reflex it, maybe perry style. Do you think that in this situation I could get away with a skiv joint? It would be a lot easier than a fishtail or W splice. The cut splice would than be held in the sleeve, real tight and supported. Cool this is starting to sound doable!

[mullet]

  It sounds like that would work to me. Lining everything up is the reason I suggested all the glue up to start with. And I don't see any reason you couldn't glue it up in a reflex either.