Author Topic: bow weight and arrow spine  (Read 6524 times)

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Offline possum

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bow weight and arrow spine
« on: September 10, 2008, 03:03:58 pm »
I know... it all depends.  But I was just thinking that with the new people coming in and asking I figured we could put together a post where they may just get a good ballpark figure to start with.  Maybe we can get people to post draw weight; centershot, flatbow or ELB style handle; and the spine of arrow that shoots well from the bow.  Maybe even drawlength and length of arrow.  I know a lot of people make their own and just work a shaft til it flies where they want and don't know the spine many don't.  Let's give it a shot.

possum
"To ensure peace, security, and happiness, the rifle and pistol are equally indispensable. The very atmosphere of firearms everywhere restrains evil interference - they deserve a place of honor with all that is good." George Washington


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Offline n2everythg

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Re: bow weight and arrow spine
« Reply #1 on: September 10, 2008, 03:32:30 pm »
I shoot cane or vibernium shafts usually and once in a while I will make up a set from spruce dowels. have 2 sage self bows currently. shelf is built up, the arrow passes approx 1/4 outside center maybe. One bow is 42 other is 53 approx draw weight at 30 inches.

I like to shoot 650 gr or less out of the 53 and 500 grain or less out of the 42. I try to match a set as close as I can in weight and like to have a 'set' of arrows all match within 25 grains of each other or less.

I use an adam's spine tester when spining out shoots or cane or dowels I think that within a couple pounds for a 'set' of arrows works for me. for the 40 lb bow I will accept 38-40 on the tester for a 'set'. for the 50 I will accept 48-50 reading. cut my arrows 32 1/2" long. self knocks now (used to use plastic knocks and cut 31.5").

this is what seems to work for me. dont know if it is worth all the trouble but makes me happy shooting.
later
N2
N2
East Coast of Nowhere

Offline JackCrafty

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Re: bow weight and arrow spine
« Reply #2 on: September 10, 2008, 04:09:07 pm »
This is a good idea when we are talking about bows and arrows that are cookie cutter.  When talking about primitive (or paleo) equipment, there is so much variation that it's better just to work off basic formulas.  If we were to list everything, I bet it would fill several pages.  I don't think reading several pages will give you a "ballpark" idea.  I think it would put you in the mood for nap-nap time.

The easiest way for a newbie to get a ballpark idea of where to start is just tell us the stats on his bow:

Draw weight?
Width of handle?
Draw length?
Hunting or target arrow?
Preferred arrow length? i.e., Do you like arrows longer that your draw length?....how much longer?
Length of bow?
Type of string?

After reviewing the above info, the guys with experience can easily give you a ballpark idea of the of arrow you need (arrowhead, shaft material, shaft dimensions, spine, weight, fletching).  Just my humble opinion. ;D
« Last Edit: September 10, 2008, 04:14:41 pm by jackcrafty »
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Offline Scowler

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Re: bow weight and arrow spine
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2008, 11:59:18 am »
I'm no expert but I like long arrows.  I am currently shooting with a bamboo-backed hickory longbow, pulling 40# at a 25" draw.  This bow has no shelf so I shoot the arrows off my hand.  The arrows for this bow are 29" long (on average) and at that lengh are spined between 35-40#.  Average arrow weight is 467 grains.  I have found that the arrow spine in more important than the arrow lengh(so long as the arrow is long enough to shoot safely).  I use 125 grain points on these arrows.  With bows that don't have shelves I usually use arrows which are 5# under spine, on average.  With bows that have center or near center cut shelves I have used arrows which have been up to 10-15# over spine with good results.  I normaly use Port Orford cedar arrow shafts.  Works for me.