Author Topic: Trying some 5/16" arrows (Read 6646 times)

Ranger B · « **on:** September 15, 2008, 10:54:10 am »

I decided to try some 5/16" shafts. I know they may be a little more difficult to keep straight and the biggest issue will be weight if I hunt with them but I want lower spine weights so I'm going to give them a try. I got two dozen in Fri so yesterday afternoon I pittled around with them and in the configuration below with no feathers or points, and full length they all weigh 375 grains + or - 10 grains. I have two coats of lacquer, the white cap and crest. I plan to put three more coats of lacquer on them which should give me about 30 more grains and then fletching and 125 gr. points. If I can get them over 425 grains and they fly fast I'm going to go to them. Anyone tried them out there? Opinions?

Pappy · « **Reply #1 on:** September 15, 2008, 11:54:22 am »

Looks good,I like closer to 550 total out of my selfbows,But I guess with a good shot in the
vitals they will work.They should be fast alright.

Pappy

Cooter · « **Reply #2 on:** September 15, 2008, 04:20:53 pm »

They look good. What weight are they spined for? I have a selfbow 45# @28' and shoot 11/32 pine spined for 39-41. I hope to drop to 5/16 in cedar with about the same. Let us know how they fly.

Ranger B · « **Reply #3 on:** September 17, 2008, 09:43:11 pm »

Well, I was surprised at the results of my arrows. Finished with two coats of white cap and 5 coats of lacquer, 3 x 5" feathers and a 125 grain point they are 535 grains plus or minus 10 grains. My 11/32" arrows are only 515 grains with a 160 grain point because they have no paint and fewer coats of lacquer. The arrow is balanced quite different as well. The 5/16" arrows balance very near the center of the arrow and the 11/32 arrows have a forward FOC.

As far as performance the 5/16" arrows fly faster and flatter despite being heavier. I suspect that is due to less mass in the arrow (drag factor) and the center of gravity being near center. With more weight on a smaller diameter arrow they should penetrate better.
Thoughts?

Don · « **Reply #4 on:** September 18, 2008, 12:35:49 am »

Ranger B.
I've been think about the same thing.
Are those Cedar shafts?
BTW Good looking arrows.

Don

Pappy · « **Reply #5 on:** September 18, 2008, 05:48:14 am »

Beautiful arrows Jimmy,nice job.

Now all you need is a deer in front of you.

Pappy

Cromm · « **Reply #6 on:** September 18, 2008, 07:11:48 am »

Very nice....

GregB · « **Reply #7 on:** September 18, 2008, 08:10:36 am »

Hopefully they'll fly good out of your bow...

That's decent weight with the smaller diameter I agree that you should get good penetration.

Ranger B · « **Reply #8 on:** September 18, 2008, 08:52:13 am »

My intent was to cut them down and get them in the 28" range but they are flying very straight at full length and the length gives me the weight so I'm hesitant now. They certainly are flying a flatter trajectory so that is a plus and I like a little bit more balanced arrow. Doing the cap dip takes much more time making arrows but I had no idea just how much that paint weighed. Two dips put a ton of wt. on the arrows. I plan to weigh the next ones before and after to see just how much of a difference it is.

Ranger B · « **Reply #9 on:** September 18, 2008, 10:45:10 am »

Ran out to do a quick test before work. Below you will see two photos. The picture with the arrows in the foam target were shot at 10 yards. Not a huge difference in penetration. The second group, in the hay, was shot at 22 yards and in this photo you see my problem. I can't get the arrows spined weak enough to shoot right of the point of aim. Both the 11/32" and the 5/16" are left of the ball I'm shooting at. I could increase the point wt. on the 5/16" but I don't think I can get broadheads much heavier in 5/16". I am shooting a 160gr pt on the 11/32. To distinguish, the white cap dipped arrows are the 5/16" and the solid, no cap dip and spliced feathers are the 11/32. I like the smaller diameter arrow.

Pappy · « **Reply #10 on:** September 18, 2008, 11:08:04 am »

Cant the bow a little more ,that will move it right,it ant center shot so it is going to shoot left.
I never use a point of aim,just look at a spot and shoot,if I pick up a center shot bow I always shoot right because I am accustom to a non center shot bow.Most of my self bow are close to the same but some I need to cant a little more and some hold a little straighter up right.Never done it by
spineing arrows as long as they hit the target straight ,not tail left or tail right at about 3 or 4 yards
I work with the arrow and tip weight till I get it to hit straight at that range and the rest is up to me.

Pappy

JackCrafty · « **Reply #11 on:** September 18, 2008, 12:47:51 pm »

The way I see it, there are three schools of thought when it comes to shooting:

1. Modify your equipment until you shoot accurately.
2. Modify your style of shooting (to compensate for your equipment) until you shoot accurately.
3. A combination of the above.

Number one is for people who treat the bow & arrow like a firearm. Number two is for people who always shoot instinctively. Number three is for newbies or people who have been doing this way too long.

My 2 cents.

Ranger B · « **Reply #12 on:** September 18, 2008, 07:17:58 pm »

I am a purely instinctive shooter. Some folks shoot instinctive out to a certain range and then go to point of aim...I just don't shoot that far out. I understand what you are saying Pappy. Essentially you are changing the plane in which archers paradox takes place. Instead of it happening left of right it now happens from about the 10 o'clock to the 4 o'clock position. I'm not sure what I said that sounded like I aim but I don't. I try to get arrows that spine weak and I put the pt. on them that I want to shoot then reduce the length to stiffen the spine until I get them hitting the spot and call it quits. I would like that arrow to be around 28" but it seems to stay around 31" naturally so that's what I was mentioning above. More weight will weaken the spine but I don't have as many options for point weight in a 5/16" arrow.

GregB · « **Reply #13 on:** September 22, 2008, 09:07:33 am »

Jimmy, I've been grouping to the left myself and kept thinking it was a problem with my follow through at release. After working on it quite a bit yesterday, I think a lot of it was due to my NOT canting my head to match the canting of my bow. I started laying my head over more in line while still anchoring in the corner of my mouth, and it brought my arrows right over.

You might give that a try if you're not already...

scattershot · « **Reply #14 on:** September 22, 2008, 12:47:57 pm »

11/32 points will work on a 5/16" shaft. It leaves a slight shoulder at the transition, but that just increases penetration by lessening the drag of the arrow passing through. Try a 160 on those new arrows and let us know what you think.

Primitive Archer