Author Topic: Mary Rose Replica Bow Build-Along--An Entrance into the World of War Bows  (Read 229487 times)

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duffontap

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Hello Everyone,

As I have said elsewhere--I am now well-invested in my first attempt at building a medieval war bow, like those found on the Mary Rose.  Although I am a hunter and build most of my bows as hunting bows, there has always been a deep fascination in me with the kind of bow that was responsible for winning wars, and, ultimately keeping most of us speaking English.  When I cut a Pacific Yew tree that had some decent 78" staves in it, I knew it would soon be time to start. 

I am posting this build-along in response to the requests of a couple PA members.  The bow is not finished, and I cannot guarantee that it will make weight without exploding.  But, I can guarantee that I will make shavings until it explodes, or until I shoot a flaming arrow into a thatched roof 200 yards away.  That's a promise.  For the next couple weeks I'll post another step each day or two.  Keep checking in if you're interested, and learn from my mistakes, and the little bit of research I have done on these wonderful weapons.  I'm sure we'll even hear from the experts like Jaro, Heavybow, Marc, and others as well. 

So where does it all start?  Inspiration.  Standing beneath an old Yew tree with a long, straight trunk is a lot of inspiration.  Watching 'Tales of the Bow' on OPB is even more inspiration.  Watching Simon shoot a 170# Yew bow (on the link below) is so much inspiration I couldn't sleep the night I saw it.  So until tomorrow, check out these links--they should be all the inspiration you need for now!

          J. D. Duff

http://youtube.com/watch?v=hUI3gMTZL-4

http://www.primitivearcher.com/articles/warbow.html

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duffontap

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Simon Stanley Video!
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2006, 02:43:07 pm »
Hello again,

I'm currently collecting information on the second installment on the build-along:  'Materials,' which I'll post later this morning.  Until then:

If you haven't taken a look at the Simon Stanley video yet, you owe it to yourself to see it.  It shows him doing some steel-piercing shots.  Really neat.  Let me know what you think of it.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=hUI3gMTZL-4

Offline billy

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Oh yeah!!!  What a cool video!  I've got some pacific yew that would probably work for an english longbow....but I don't think I'll be pulling a 170# bow....I'd end up tearing my shoulder out of socket...
Marietta, Georgia

Offline Justin Snyder

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Oh come on J.D., you've been taunting and teasing for two weeks. I need to see some serious bow pics.  ;D ;D  I'm excited to watch this post, keep up the good work and keep us posted. Justin
Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you made a bad decision.


SW Utah

Offline Badger

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JD, I will be watching this thread closely as I am in the middle of an alnost identical bow from erc, I ran a ring on it this morning and have one limb just starting to flex a bit, I have no idea how many #'s i will get from the wood, I am hoping for a minimum of 90# and a max of about 125#. This bow would last me a lifetime as I can barely draw 70#. Hoping I can get someone to shoot it for me in the selfbow division of flight archery. If it doesn't explode!!

Offline Stickhead

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Steve - you didn't waste any time with that ERC!  I'll be highly interested to track your progress as well as J.D.'s

jcougar

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Steve,
What a coincidence!  I just happen to putting the last few coats of tru oil on an erc elb.  It draws right around 80# at 31".  Right now I can only get it back to 28", where it pulls in the low seventies.  Is yours going to bend in the handle?  I noticed that you mentioned chasing a ring.  It has been my experience that the heartwood/sapwood seperation on erc rarely follows a single ring.  On the bow I mentioned above, the sapwood is only 1/8" i some spots near the handle, and nearly 1/2" thick at the tips.

duffontap

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Thanks guys. 

Justin, the bow is progressing along well.  I'll get to 'serious pics' soon but I've been learning so much, and I've been so interested by this project I wanted to do a careful build-along to encourage others to try this kind of bow and give them the missing bits of info to do it.  I got some sweet ox horn off Ebay too--thanks!

I had no idea you could get that kind of weight out of ERC!  That's awesome.  It's such beautiful wood. 

I'm finishing up my stuff on materials--I'll post as soon as I can.

         J. D. Duff

duffontap

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Step 2: Grab Your Nearest Yew Stave
« Reply #8 on: October 31, 2006, 11:33:25 pm »
Welcome again to medieval war bow country,

In this tantalizing/torturously slow progression toward our goal of shooting a flaming arrow into a thatched roof at 200 paces, we have arrived at step #2:  obtaining raw materials.  The 175 or so Mary Rose bows were all of Yew, which reflected the strong preference of medieval archers and bowyers, but was not an accurate cross-section of all military-issue bows as just as many bows were made from white woods—in some cases more. 

Experts agree that the variety of ring counts per inch, widths, depths, lengths and overall mass of the different bows are best accounted for by the fact that the yew was sourced all over Europe.

Material Options for the Medieval War Bow:

Best:  Alpine Italian Yew.  This is the same species of Yew as the famed English Yew, but tends to be much denser (barely floats, if at all) and makes a very slender, high-weight bow.  High Alpine Italian Yew would have been the favorite of both bowyers and archers for its strength and consistency.  With renewed interest in war bows, some of the original plantations of Italian Yew have been revisited and a number of replica bows have been made from them.  As a point of interest, the three war bows pictured on the couch are for sale in the UK.  They are selling for around 550 pounds!

Alternatives: 
English Yew and Swiss Yew also make good war bows.  As a general rule, English Yew has more widely-spaced growth rings and makes a physically larger bow of the same draw weight. 

Pacific Yew, aka Oregon Yew is a good alternative to the European Yew woods but is a markedly different species.  Pacific Yew is lighter and when grown under the right conditions it is the tightest-grained Yew there is.  Problems with Pacific Yew have to do with its more brittle nature.  It also tends to be weak around pins and character whereas Italian Yew can hold together even with quite a lot of character.  Excellent, full-length staves of Oregon Yew are available through Don Adams:

http://www.donadamsarchery.com/staves.htm

Ash and Elm can also make good war bows and they were used a great deal in medieval times.  At one point, bowyers were required to build two white wood war bows for every one Yew bow.  The problem came when they tried to pass white wood bows out to archers—archers who wanted Yew!  Our own Thimo has proven that heavy war bows can be built with dense Elm staves.  Ash and Elm are widely available and a good option for a first shot at a war bow.

For my first attempt at a war bow, I have chosen a decent 78” Pacific Yew stave.  It is not the best Yew out there, but not nearly the worst.  Careful tillering will likely yield a serviceable war bow.

So take a look at the pics, grab your longest, cleanest, hardest Yew, Ash, Elm or other white wood stave and take the plunge.

Step Three Tomorrow.          J. D. Duff


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Fred_Hagell

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Re: Mary Rose Replica Bow Build-Along--An Entrance into the World of War Bows
« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2006, 12:23:39 am »
Great post, JD. I'm looking forward to seeing the thatch go up.  Any thoughts on how well Osage will stand up to the challenge?  I'm going to give it a shot, once it dries.

thimosabbv

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Re: Mary Rose Replica Bow Build-Along--An Entrance into the World of War Bows
« Reply #10 on: November 01, 2006, 01:23:55 am »
I'm diggin this.  8)

Offline Badger

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Re: Mary Rose Replica Bow Build-Along--An Entrance into the World of War Bows
« Reply #11 on: November 01, 2006, 03:19:07 am »
I got a couple of stavs from stickhead and could not resist getting started, I used the spokeshave to chase a ring about 10 rings down from the bark, some places it is 1/8 thick other places the sapwood is close to 1/2' thick. I am doing it like all my bows and baseing it on mass weight, at 100# draw and 78" long I want it to finish between 24 and 27 oz.  right now I am at 31 oz and slightly flexing. The idea for my bow is to handle fairly light arrows of 500 grains. I really want to break the 400 yard mark for a wood bow, especially a self bow. Even though yew is probably more relaible than erc, I think erc performs slightly better than yew. I may only go for a 26" draw and if it survives that enter it in the english long bow category and draw it to 30". I can only draw about 70# so will have to hire myself a shooter for the day or train my butt off and try it myself, Steve

Offline heavybow

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Re: Mary Rose Replica Bow Build-Along--An Entrance into the World of War Bows
« Reply #12 on: November 01, 2006, 07:18:22 am »
Im glad to see more about war bows. Steve just train you will be pulling a higher poundage bow. JD your bow is coming along. ;D

Offline Badger

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Re: Mary Rose Replica Bow Build-Along--An Entrance into the World of War Bows
« Reply #13 on: November 01, 2006, 10:40:05 am »
Fred i think osage will stand up fine with the war bows if you keep the length down some, maybe not more than 72". I believe the bow mark built this last year that broke a record was only about 70 or 72" maybe him or marlon will stop by and talk about that bow a bit. Steve

Offline markinengland

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Re: Mary Rose Replica Bow Build-Along--An Entrance into the World of War Bows
« Reply #14 on: November 01, 2006, 01:46:40 pm »
JD,
Not all the bows on the Mary Rose were Yew. Some who have written books on the subject claim they were but one of the UK most notable bowyers who really knows his woods and who has seen the bows tells me that there are a few bows that definately weren't yew. One of these days I must see if I can make an appointment with the museum and go and see the bows for myself.
Mark in England