Author Topic: Wood backing glues and other tips?  (Read 7743 times)

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Offline Badger

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Re: Wood backing glues and other tips?
« Reply #15 on: August 01, 2008, 04:39:01 pm »
Pat, I have removed a few boo backings with my heat gun that were glued on with tb3, it seemed I had to get it pretty hot to do so but not hot enough to scorch,

Offline Pat B

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Re: Wood backing glues and other tips?
« Reply #16 on: August 01, 2008, 04:49:13 pm »
Steve, they say 150deg and the glue will release. I guess you have to get the wood around it pretty hot to get the glue 150deg.  On the hickory backing, like you, I got it pretty hot but not quite scorch it.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Rich Saffold

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Re: Wood backing glues and other tips?
« Reply #17 on: August 02, 2008, 12:27:48 am »
I did a car test with a couple bows glued up with tb3. It was 105 out and the car was in the sun for two hours. I took those bows to mojam...So they can take some serious heat abuse..

The other trick I learned is if one of these bows dry fires hard, usually the limb will delaminate clean, and can be re-glued. If it's glued up with an epoxy type glue, it will take material from both parts of the limb and most likely  be a total loss.. 


Adam Keiper

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Re: Wood backing glues and other tips?
« Reply #18 on: August 02, 2008, 08:45:49 am »
Urac here.  Obviously there are lots of options.  But my take is that Titebond is too finicky on needing perfect gluing surfaces and is prone to creep.  Epoxy should really be cured in a large heat box, which I don't have.  Urac is waterproof, doesn't creep, and fills gaps.  Cheap and easy to use, too.  I just can't see investing all the time to build a bow and then using anything less than the ideal glue.  Resourcinal would be an equally good option, but is much more expensive.  The downsides to Urac is that you have to order it (Directly from Nelson Paint is the cheapest), it has a shelf life of a year, and you can't do any glue ups below 60 or 65 degrees.

Offline Justin Snyder

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Re: Wood backing glues and other tips?
« Reply #19 on: August 02, 2008, 07:35:45 pm »
Urac here.  Obviously there are lots of options.  But my take is that Titebond is too finicky on needing perfect gluing surfaces and is prone to creep.  Epoxy should really be cured in a large heat box, which I don't have.  Urac is waterproof, doesn't creep, and fills gaps.  Cheap and easy to use, too.  I just can't see investing all the time to build a bow and then using anything less than the ideal glue.  Resourcinal would be an equally good option, but is much more expensive.  The downsides to Urac is that you have to order it (Directly from Nelson Paint is the cheapest), it has a shelf life of a year, and you can't do any glue ups below 60 or 65 degrees.
And clean up isn't as easy as TB and you have to mix it.
Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you made a bad decision.


SW Utah