Author Topic: Best glue for snakeskin backing? (Read 17698 times)

Papa Matt · « **on:** July 15, 2008, 11:43:53 am »

Brothers, what is the best glue for this? I saw on a website that contact cement is best. I have also heard Titebond II. Which is it?

-Matt

welch2 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 15, 2008, 12:33:36 pm »

On wood ? Over a finish ? Over sinew ?

Ralph

Pat B · « **Reply #2 on:** July 15, 2008, 12:34:50 pm »

Probably the best glue for skinning a bow would be hide glue. Both the glue and skin are basically the same thing. I have always used TBII or TBIII for skins and with good success. Contact cement would probably work well except if you stick it down wrong, it is too bad...it is stuck. Frankly I like a bit more working time when I do skins. Pat

adb · « **Reply #3 on:** July 15, 2008, 12:42:27 pm »

Hey, Matt

I've used TB2, TB3, hide glue, and barge contact cement. I usually use TB2, but it depends on the surface. I did use contact cement on a fiberglass backed longbow, but like Pat said, once it's down, you can't readjust. Hide glue is strong, but it took forever to dry (we're talkin" days!!), and it just didn't seem to be worth the extra trouble. TB2 for me.

Papa Matt · « **Reply #4 on:** July 15, 2008, 12:45:33 pm »

Right on, thanks for the advice!

Pappy · « **Reply #5 on:** July 16, 2008, 07:10:47 am »

I use to use TB2 now I use 3 because it is water prof. Any of the above will work but if it
is your first I would use TB 1 or 2 it sets up slower ,so you have time to get all the wrinkles and air bubbles out and be sure it is lined up where you want it.You don't have a lot of time to fool around with TB3.

Pappy

Papa Matt · « **Reply #6 on:** July 16, 2008, 09:25:35 am »

What if the back of this bow is not perfectly flat nor round, and has waves and dips in it, is it still ok to apply a backing or shouls I leave as is? It's black locust and the outermost ring of heartwood is the back, and as I followed it I noticed it has ups and downs and low spots.

Matt

Pappy · « **Reply #7 on:** July 16, 2008, 09:35:53 am »

Unless it is real bad dips just soak the skins in water to get it soft and work down in the dips and it will be ok.I do a lot of Osage and most all of it has dips and dives in them.

Pappy

Gordon · « **Reply #8 on:** July 16, 2008, 11:07:07 am »

I use TB liquid hide glue. I like it because it really seems to have an affinity with the skins and I can easily remove bubbles after it dries by spot heating with an iron. I've never experienced any drying problems with it.

Coo-wah-chobee · « **Reply #9 on:** July 16, 2008, 11:47:46 am »

Like Gordon said er hide glue ya make.....bob

Papa Matt · « **Reply #10 on:** July 16, 2008, 12:20:54 pm »

Another question? Is there a simple yet effective way to make hide glue at home with strips of leather or sinew? I've heard people talk about "double boilers" but that sounds too complicated. The indians didn't have a "double boiler", how did they do it?

~~Matt

Pat B · « **Reply #11 on:** July 16, 2008, 01:15:37 pm »

You can make hide glue by boiling sinew and rawhide scraps in water. I've never done it but I'm sure someone will chine in with details. You can not make hide glue with leather. The tanning process removes the "gelatin" from the hide. Knox unflavored gelatin is a good, cheap, redily available hide glue substitute. Pat

adb · « **Reply #12 on:** July 16, 2008, 06:39:06 pm »

You can make good hide glue yourself, from rawhide, or sinew. But, do it outside! If you do it indoors, it'll stink up your whole house... for days!! Your wife and/or family will kill you. When you think you've boiled it enough, boil it somemore. Boil it until it's a thick, syrupy, goo. Let it cool. and then reheat it over a double boiler to apply. I totally cheat, and use TB hide glue in the bottle. Hide glue also has a limited self life, no more than a few weeks. It's organic, and will rot. knox gelatin, from your grocery store, is the same thing, and I also use it.

PeteC · « **Reply #13 on:** July 16, 2008, 09:37:39 pm »

TB III for me too,but when you apply it,just do about 10" worth,spread with your finger,get all the air worked out, and the skin where you want it,then do another 10",repeat until your finished.When done in this fashion,I don't even need to wrap it,it stays put real nice. God Bless

kayakfisher · « **Reply #14 on:** July 16, 2008, 09:56:41 pm »

I think its pretty unanimous that titte bond glue 1 or 2 or 3 does an excellent job but like it was already stated don't try to do a hole limb at one time do six seven inches or so at one time .I use rawhide backing quite a bit on my bows and it sticks pretty quick with ample working time. I have used contact cement on glass backed bows only because I couldn't get the titte bond to hold good
Dennis

Primitive Archer