Takedown Osage in the works

[bentstick54]

With the recent cold that settled in I decided to work on a bow. I had an old set of takedown sleeves that I salvaged from an earlier attempt several years back. I pulled out a pair of sister billets that were cut last February, sealed and stored in my basement. I prefer to let my staves dry longer, but impatience got the best of me. Right now it’s at 44# @28” 66” long.

After setting for several hours, then being shot for about 30 arrows on multiple days it has about 2” of set immediately after unstringing, then settles to 1-1/2” after 30 minutes. It shoots a pretty darn good the way it is.

Before I start applying a Truoil finish I’m wondering if I should leave well enough alone, make any minor tiller adjustments, or try to flip the tips a little bit?  I would like to keep it above 40# finish draw weight. What’s everyone’s thoughts?

[superdav95]

Lookin good!  Flipped tips or recurring tips will add a little draw weight but it may also add to the set as well.  Have you done any heat treatment on belly?

[bentstick54]

I have not done any heat treating or heat corrections of any kind. I am happy with current draw weight, but wouldn’t be worried about losing 1# or 2# if you see any tiller adjustments that might need to be made. I just don’t want to increase any set if possible.

[bjrogg]

How is the set? Is it evenly distributed or in a certain area?

I don’t see anything that looks to be in trouble.

Bjrogg

[PEARL DRUMS]

Your tiller work is always right on. I can count on that every time I open your posts. For what my opinion is worth? I build very, very few bows that aren't straight limbed. I have come to the conclusion that the performance gain is minimal and it mostly just adds work/risk to the build and makes it look pretty to the eyes. I've chased all of that around for many years and settled on straight limb bows. I think I have flipped tips once and made one static the last 15-20 bows. I think building a zillion bows in every configuration is just a part of this hobby. Eventually a guy settles on what he feels is best for him.

[JW_Halverson]

Your tiller work is always right on. I can count on that every time I open your posts. For what my opinion is worth? I build very, very few bows that aren't straight limbed. I have come to the conclusion that the performance gain is minimal and it mostly just adds work/risk to the build and makes it look pretty to the eyes. I've chased all of that around for many years and settled on straight limb bows. I think I have flipped tips once and made one static the last 15-20 bows. I think building a zillion bows in every configuration is just a part of this hobby. Eventually a guy settles on what he feels is best for him.

Ditto. I hadn't done a recurve in so long I kinda forgot some of the things to watch out for. Last year I did a really narrow pyramid with needle tips. I may or may not have been tippling the grain juice and got a wild hair to recurve it. I steamed in the bends and set it aside for two days. When I went to string the bow I remembered why narrow-as-heck tips should not be treated in this manner! It took me at least 20 heat treats to get the tips to line up and the string to track down the limb tips. I even dug deep string groove trenches to help keep it from reverse stringing itself when it was shot.

In the end I spent waaaaay to much time on it and I worried it might drift back a little over time, so I put it on a corner somewhere.  Is it pretty, YES! Does it shoot nicely, also YES! Am I gonna do this again....yeah, not likely! I am back to straight limb bows like you. IF I do another recurved limb bow I will keep things much wider on the tips and that means plan for it ahead of time.

Remember, plan the hunt and then hunt the plan.

[Jim Davis]

Agree on  straight limbs. I haven't made anything else in more than 20 years.

[bentstick54]

BJ, set is mostly in outer 1/3 of both limbs. That’s almost always where I end up with some, but usually around 1”. That’s why I think I should have let the stave dry longer.

Pearl, I always value your opinion. I really like the straight limb bows, both in looks and shootability.

I’m inclined to keep shooting it as is for awhile, then if nothing changes finish it as is. Thanks for your thoughts.

[bentstick54]

Agree Jim, we must have been typing at the same time.

[wooddamon1]

Looks great as is, Brian.

[bentstick54]

Thanks Damon.

[bjrogg]

BJ, set is mostly in outer 1/3 of both limbs. That’s almost always where I end up with some, but usually around 1”. That’s why I think I should have let the stave dry longer.

I seem to have the same problem. It always looks a little stiff in outer third to me in my upper limb.

If I take a little off and make the bend look right it takes set.

It is nice to let them really dry down. Wet wood definitely worse for set to.

Nice bow. How did you do the handle? It looks nice

Bjrogg

[Selfbowman]

Looks good and everything said above!

[bentstick54]

BJ, I had purchased the metal/ brass sleeve set several years back. I took a heavy sheet of white construction paper and set the sleeves on it, used a block of wood and hammer and tapped the sleeves hard enough to imprint on the paper, then cut that out with scissors. I glued the paper “patterns” to to end off the billets,  then used a rasp to shape the end of the billets fitting the sleeves as I went. I had some JB Weld that I used to epoxy the sleeves to the wood. Let set for 24 hours and started on the bow.

Thanks Arvin

[Pappy]

Looks really good to me, I would probably leave as is, but for me just flipping the tips don't change much as far as tiller but dose add a few pounds of weight, and at least for me make it a little smoother draw. I have made several with them type sleeve and they work great, learned early on not to clamp them in a vice or be rough with them getting the fit, just have to work slow until they slide on pretty easy with out damaging the sleeves, don't take much to get them where they don't come apart easily. 
 Pappy