non-traditional trad bow.

[superdav95]

very nice! it's a perfect circle at full draw! great 

what kind of boo is it?

It’s moso large pole about 5”
Diameter

[mmattockx]

Dave,

Do you have an unbraced picture as well?


Mark

[superdav95]

heres  some more pics a few differet angles.  hope this helps

[WhistlingBadger]

Interesting, Dave.  I have a couple of laminated wood slats I kept from my daughter's old bed that I might try something like this with.  They're pretty springy, fairly stiff but bend almost double before they break.  Trying to decide whether they're worth the time since I have a few nice, locally harvested staves I'd rather work with.

[WhistlingBadger]

I would love to try a horse bow with siyahs on it.  But I'd be scared to death they'd bust loose at full draw, so I've never done it.

[superdav95]

I would love to try a horse bow with siyahs on it.  But I'd be scared to death they'd bust loose at full draw, so I've never done it.

I’ve never had one pull off on me.  I use high heat glue stick to stick them down and then wrap the heck out of them with b55.  This little bow shoots pretty good for overstressed recycled limbs.  The next one will be closer to 50# at 31”.  The siyahs were too sharp of an angle too which I’d reduce on the next one.  Anyway I would recommend this as a great option

[superdav95]

Interesting, Dave.  I have a couple of laminated wood slats I kept from my daughter's old bed that I might try something like this with.  They're pretty springy, fairly stiff but bend almost double before they break.  Trying to decide whether they're worth the time since I have a few nice, locally harvested staves I'd rather work with.

WB.  If you want I can send you a set of limb slats to build one.  I’d even heat treat them for you to play around with.  Let me know

[WhistlingBadger]

Oh, that would be cool.  I'll PM you my vital stats.  But no hurry.  I seriously have at least four other bows in the pipeline, and at the rate I build them I'm probably good for several years.   

[willie]

I recall from somewhere I cannot remember now, that the angle of non working reflexed tips (siyahs), are most efficient when straight up and down, neither pointing foreward or back, at full draw

[superdav95]

Willie,   You may be right.  I’m not sure on that though about the Siyahs angle.   The reason for my wanting to reduce it a bit on next one is to have less noise on release.  I find these fixed sharp angle levers are prone to string slap at the heel area when shooting.  I’ve tried adding cork and leather padding to deaden the sound a bit with some of them which helps a little.  A little less sharp of an angle virtually eliminates this issue of slap in this area and makes for a much quieter shooting bow.  I have not seen much difference at all in speed performance in comparison of the two versions and find that they are easier to tame.  I’m working on a new bow now with fresh limbs to see if I can get closer to 50# at 31”.  I’ve changed the amount of deflex in handle area too if the new one to make it more mild deflex and not quite as much as last one.  We shall see how it tillers out.  Cheers. here are some pics of the new one glued up.  the angle as mentioned is not as sharp at the handle deflex or at the levers.  just have to do some file work and get it wrapped, tillered,  tuned and shot.   

[mmattockx]

heres  some more pics a few differet angles.  hope this helps

Thanks for the pictures. Was there a lot of string tension at brace? How was the early draw weight?


Mark

[superdav95]

heres  some more pics a few differet angles.  hope this helps

Thanks for the pictures. Was there a lot of string tension at brace? How was the early draw weight?


Mark

Mark.  I didn’t do up a force draw curve or anything on this one yet but I would say that just by feel it has less early draw tension then my more reflexed versions of these bows.  Its late draw feels about the same though.  It came as no surprise to see this as the backset adds some early tension. 

[superdav95]

a little update on these little bow experiments.  I finished up the second one i show here that had less deflex and less sharp an agle on the siyahs.  I wrapped and served it all for testing and it shot really well actually.  the limbs held up very well and and did not lose much if any at all of the little gentle reflex heat induced into them.  I kept it mild as I want to take advatage of a longer draw if possible.  speed testing this bow was cut short as i had a siyah split on the one end and followed a grain line from the string groove.  oh well no damage done to the limbs so i made another and reinforced with some buff horn on the sides as ive done before.  I tapered the backside of the siyah to allow for better string slippage back there with the large string loops.  I made these siyahs very light and want to give this bow every chance to perform its best.  prior to the siyah splitting on me when shooting  i had gotten speeds of 187,188,193 shooting a 500 grain arrow.  the pull of the bow was 51lbs at 28".  Im wanting the bow to end up at 50 lbs at 29-30".  when i got out to 29" it split the siyah.  I suspect that if i kept it under 45lbs it would likley had been fine.  pushing the limits of the oak.  Im always carefull to follow optimal grain for these levers to avoid issues but wood still has its limits.     so I did a little sanding off the belly and put a basic stain on it and sealed it with a laquer.  Ill wrap with a dark brown b55 string and reshoot it and see where it ended up.  bend looked good upon shooting it initially so hopfully i didnt mess with it too much.  we shall see how it shoots.  fingers crossed. 

[willie]

nice  hope to see a fulldraw pic with the fixed siayh.

do you think there was any twisting of the siayah at full draw?  do you have to adjust your siyahs/string alignment to prevent twisting once they are glued on?

[superdav95]

nice  hope to see a fulldraw pic with the fixed siayh.

do you think there was any twisting of the siayah at full draw?  do you have to adjust your siyahs to prevent twisting once they are glued on?

thanks willie!  yes im hoping to get it all wrapped and shooting again in a day of so when laquer dries.  with the stain under it it takes a day or so.  the siyahs stay put and so long as they are on straight im good.  ive had some with little twist but easy enough to heat and reset them again.  I do most of my shaping and thinning of the siyahs with file work after they are glued and set to avoid the twist and have good string alignment.  glueing them down while in block dimensions make this easier and makes it visually easier to detect problems and make certain to get them straight.  the serving holds them down really well.  Ive made 70lbs versions of these and glued and served the siyahs with no problems.  any very minor tweeking can also be done to fine tune the siyahs while thinning them too after glue up.  this is especially the case when i do side supports of horn after the fact.