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Twist and shout

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Mo_coon-catcher:
That twist should pull out no problem while heat treating. Get it floor tillered for minimal wood thickness then make a couple wedges from pine so it’s softer than the hickory. Use the wedges to twist the limbs about 20% further than thy currently are while heating, once locked in where you want scorch the snot out of the belly.

You could also leave that amount of twist, it’s not a problem at all. This spring I did an Osage where one limb had about 80* of twist and I left it. It shoots fine. Just use a single side nock in the high side of the limb and the string will stay put

Kyle

Muskyman:
Thanks for all the replies. I’m not sure how I’m going to attack this thing yet but did get some interesting feedback. I did work on it some today and have it shaped, mostly.
1-1/2 at the fades and about 3/8 at the tip. 70 inches long. It’s at floor tiller and bending somewhat.

Pappy:
I have done a lot of Hickory , you can take that out pretty easy with dry heat, I usually on one with a lot of propeller take it out in 2 or 3 sessions , or what every it takes, be patent, :) it will sometimes rupture the back if you try and take it all at once.  :)
 Pappy

Muskyman:
Thanks Pappy, I think I’ll try it your way. Do one limb at a time and see what I can do with it. Once I get the twist out I’ll probably clamp it and try to add a little reflex.  I’ve actually got about 6-8 staves from the same tree and all of them have the prop twist. If I don’t make a bow from this one I can try again on another one. Never a waste of time trying to make a bow.

superdav95:
Ya much like mocoon catcher said.  Many that I’ve done like that I clamp it down to my caul at this stage and get it straight and tips aligned like has been said and heat treat it.  I don’t go past the correction with hickory as it holds pretty well once heat treated fairly deeply on belly.  Only word of caution,  protect the back.  Put down some sort of fibreglass batt or something to prevent some of the heat getting around to the back of bow.  The heat will wrap around a bit you will want to avoid as much of that as poss.  I usually get my profile done and the bow bending good at floor tiller usually limbs around 1/2” or under in thickness then clamp down and heat treat. When you pull it off the caul it will be pretty straight and hold.  With Osage of yew I will go past the correction a little as some of it will creep back and undo the correction.  Best of luck with it. 

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