Splitting Hickory Staves

[WackEM]

I just made my first hickory self bow last year and I thought it turned out pretty good. I was wanting to make some more when I get time since I have a better understanding of how to but my family is selling the land that I get my hickory logs from so I went yesterday and cut a few logs to split into staves for future use. My question is after I split the logs into staves can I take the bark off and seal them with something to cure out? I didn’t know since under the bark is essentially the back of the bow.it’s just so much easier to take the bark off while it’s green. Any advice is much appreciated.

[Will B]

I would recommend carefully removing the bark and cambium layer (using a combination of draw knife and card scraper) and sealing the backs and ends with shellac. This will keep the back and ends from checking while drying and reduce the potential for bug damage. Good luck with your future builds!

[WackEM]

Thank you. Would I need to take the shellac off when I started to make the bow? If so how do you recommend doing that? Thanks again.

[Pat B]

Shellac is usually carried by alcohol so it can be removed with a rag damp with denatured alcohol. The nice think about shellac is that most finishes are compatible with shellac. If you want to dye or stain your hickory you will have to remove the shellac completely before dying or staining.
 If your area is well enough into the growing season you should be able to just peel the bark off without having to use a scraper or draw knife.

[WackEM]

Okay thank you. That’s what I’ll do. I know it would be a lot easier taking it off now than later plus keep the bugs out. The first bow I did was from a 3 1/2” to 4” sapling so I’ve never split any staves. Do you recommend chalking and cutting a line with a skill saw before splitting? Thanks again.

[superdav95]

I usually harvest 15-20 hickory staves a year.  I try to wait till more into late spring or early summer and the bark just slips off after I split them up.  For larger diameter trees 7-8” or larger I’ll split it into quarters then split those again into eighths.  I run my wedges on the bark side and leap front along my way down the stave.  If there is a natural crack already started I’ll use it to start.  In colder weather I’ve tried to use a propane torch to lightly heat up the bark and it can assist in slipping bark.  Don’t scorch it but get it warm.  I’ve had mixed results with this and prefer to just do it in the summer time to avoid hassle.  I seal with a brush on water based poly sealer on the ends and the entire back.  This should help with keeping the moisture loss isolated to the belly wedge.  I do not use a chalk line or a skill saw on hickory.  It’s pretty straight grain.  I only do this with elm or yew logs maybe.  Get some good wedges and a mall hammer you’ll be good.  Another thing you could do is if the bark dose t slip is to draw knife most of bark off then use a wall paper steamer and a full spoon to go along and carefully scrape the remaining cambium off with steam.  This works well actually but it takes time.  Best of luck. 

[Pat B]

Trying to split a small diameter stave, 2" to 4", is difficult and can ruin at least one side. For small diameter I use my bandsaw to saw the "pole", considering limbs, knots or other maladies so the backs are as clear as possible. After they are sawn in half I bind them back together with spacers between the 2 sides for good air flow. The pics below is a 2" to 3" osage I cut recently and will give them a few months at least before working them. I sealed the ends with shellac but am leaving the bark on to seal the back. I'll probably remove the bark a bit later before the grubs wake up hungry.

[WackEM]

Thanks guys. I split it up this evening and I got 5 staves out of a 7” log. Could have maybe got more on a couple of the staves but didn’t want to chance it. I put a couple of thick coats of shellac on the back and ends so I hope it keeps it from splitting. I appreciate all the help. Hopefully I can get time to build another one. I work with my dad and he’s 80 years old and we work every day so it’s hard to find the time but I made it work last year so I can do it again. Thanks

[JW_Halverson]

Trying to split a small diameter stave, 2" to 4", is difficult and can ruin at least one side. For small diameter I use my bandsaw to saw the "pole", considering limbs, knots or other maladies so the backs are as clear as possible. After they are sawn in half I bind them back together with spacers between the 2 sides for good air flow. The pics below is a 2" to 3" osage I cut recently and will give them a few months at least before working them. I sealed the ends with shellac but am leaving the bark on to seal the back. I'll probably remove the bark a bit later before the grubs wake up hungry.

I have a pair like that sawn from a small diameter hop hornbeam tree I cut last december. I found this tree about a decade ago and marked it by leaning a piece of old car fender up against it. From time to time I reminded myself to go cut the tree and get it curing out, but just didn't get around to it. Finally got out this last winter and to my surprise, it was about half as big in diameter as I remembered it!!! Had to have shrunk, no way I could have misremembered...right?

[bassman211]

I stored a hickory log in my garage rafters back in the day quartered, and wet before I knew  better. They all twisted, and were useless in the end. After that with hickory I got the staves to floor tiller wet, and clamped them to a 4 inch reflex form, and let them dry in my basement. I have enough forms to take care of the staves ,and they dry faster. If I want to fire harden one, I take it off the form string it backwards, and toast the limbs over an open fire with leather welding gloves.I get good results with hickory that way. More than one way to skin a cat.