is my project doomed from the start?

[Zugul]

I've gained 1 1/2 inches of draw and to me it seems like the inner half of both limbs is bending decently while the outher half is pretty stiff (left outer 1/2 limb stiffer then the right one). What do you guys think?

[Zugul]

After a long pause I got at this bow again, now it's finally at low brace height. I also corrected the deflex between the knot and the end of the left limb, to make it easier to judge the bend there. To my eye the bow seems a bit stiff in the inner 1/3 of each limb and in the knot area, what do you guys think?

[superdav95]

Yup that’s what I see too.  Looking good though.  Get it to brace and then get better idea on how the bend is coming from brace.  The bend draw will look different from brace. 

[Zugul]

Finally managed to get the bow to a 5" brace height, after getting it to 35# at  a little more then 14" when it was at a shorter brace. It started getting a bit of set (1/2") pretty spread out along both limbs but there's a touch more of it at the wiggle on the right of the middle of the bow, so that area wil stay untouched. Other than that I'd say it can bend a touch more right in the middle, thoughts? After that adjustment I'd just keep getting the weight down while I approach draw lenght 

[Zugul]

I did a few little tweaks and brought the brace height up to 6", the weight is now at 35# at 16". Set did not increase so it seems like I'm on the right track, maybe the right limb is still a bit stiff around mid limb. From now it should be only a matter of adjusting the right limb and then even mass removal and frequent tiller checks, correct?
If you click on the image you'll be sent to the one I posted on flickr, where you can zoom on it if needed to better judge the bend

[Pappy]

Looking really good to my eyes. Pappy

[superdav95]

Me too

[Zugul]

So, I've tillered this bow a bit more, now it's 35# at around 19.5" of draw lenght. I tried something new to see if I'm on the right track: I've made a realistic model of my bow (for what I could) on VirtualBow and then I "tillered" the virtual version to get an even distribution of stress across the bow, maintaining the front profile and changing only the thickness of the limbs. My reasoning is that, for a ceartain front profile, there's only one particular shape (tiller) the bow can have to spread the load evenly across the limbs, wich should minimize set. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, I still consider myself a complete newbie! Here are pictures of the bow and the model from VirtualBow at the same brace height and draw lenght.

[Pappy]

Still looking really good to me. 
 Pappy

[bjrogg]

Whatever you are doing it looks really good to me so far and it seems like your unbraced profile is holding its shape well.



Bjrogg

[JW_Halverson]

So, I've tillered this bow a bit more, now it's 35# at around 19.5" of draw lenght. I tried something new to see if I'm on the right track: I've made a realistic model of my bow (for what I could) on VirtualBow and then I "tillered" the virtual version to get an even distribution of stress across the bow, maintaining the front profile and changing only the thickness of the limbs. My reasoning is that, for a ceartain front profile, there's only one particular shape (tiller) the bow can have to spread the load evenly across the limbs, wich should minimize set. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, I still consider myself a complete newbie! Here are pictures of the bow and the model from VirtualBow at the same brace height and draw lenght.

Glad to see you back and still working on this bow. I think it has real potentional to be a bow that works for you!

[willie]

Whatever you are doing it looks really good to me so far and it seems like your unbraced profile is holding its shape well.
Bjrogg

agreed, and looks like you have that knot area neither to stiff or weak which can be tricky

for a ceartain front profile, there's only one particular shape (tiller) the bow can have to spread the load evenly across the limbs, wich should minimize set.

very true. and the best approach since you are concerned with getting 40# out of a short and narrow stave.
when width and length allow, having a stiffer (lesser stressed) handle area and tips can improve performance and feel (dampness) in the hand.