Apple wood bow, can I fix?

[Lost Oki]

This 4th bow, first three were oak board bows, one broke, still shooting other two.  The apple wood bow is from a limb and has been drying for several months.  I started working it down to get close to 40 lbs at 26" and feel like I have messed up.  First pic is of bow limb, it tapers from 2.5" at handle to 1" at tip, note the knot approx 5" from tip and second about half way.  2nd pic is of the knot close to the end of bow, limb is 1/2" thick and 1" wide at this point and I cut into the knot.  3rd pic is second knot in first pic, 
Questions:  1.  can this first knot be fixed in some way.....super glue?.
2.  2nd knot, how should I reduce the thickness of limb at this knot. 
I know I should purchase some of the books on self bow building but I am retired with limited funds.
 

[superdav95]

Lost oki.  I wish I had some reassurances for you but it’s been my experience that these kind of cracks in knots at this spot are trouble down the road.  You could fill in with some thin ca glue and hope for the best.  The knot that appears in last pic may be ok just round off as much as you can without compromising the knot and a little of the surrounding wood.   Best of luck. Keep us posted. 

[Hamish]

If you still have more tillering to do, then don't remove any more wood on either of the knots, on the belly. Knots are weak points, both in tension and compression. Therefore those areas would be left with little bumps or warts to compensate.
Ideally you would have identified the problem a little earlier in the process. Just keep an eye out for compression fractures  on the belly at these area, as you progress tillering and shoot in..

[stuckinthemud]

Knots can be week points in compression and tension, that is very true but I would caution against going too far in leaving thickness as this can cause a hard point which also can lead to failure.  You should follow the grain as it flows around the knot in all 3 dimensions.  Keep things oversize initially and refine things late on but the tillering gizmo will be your very best friend here

[Lost Oki]

Thank you Gentlemen for the reply's.  You learn from your mistakes and gain from the knowledge of others.  I have a tendency to think "outside the box", a disadvantage sometimes.  SO: 
What If??  I gave up on the 40 lb draw weight and started a taper just past the first knot on right from handle and tapered to a 1/2" wide, 1/2" thick in middle tapered to approx 3/8 or 1/4" at edges at 2nd knot.  This might eliminate the bad knot. 

Just read the post on mollegabet bows,  based on drawing posted this might work.  Think I will give it a shot if it will work on the other limb without causing issues.  Got to love this sight and the people posting here.

[superdav95]

It’s worth a try but be warned that the knots may continue a ways but more then you think and you risk still dealing with the knot even when you remove more wood.  Just be aware it’s a risk but it may just lay off too.  Sometimes we need to take risks in this bow making stuff.  Thinking outside the box can be a good thing. 

[Lost Oki]

Reviewed knot location and decided to go ahead with the design provided by Pat B on another post.  Since my bow is shorter than the one pictured I used a percentage of length to determine measurements.  I did manage to get rid of the first knot (good thing, crack ran full length).  see pics below.
1.  bow on tillering rack, belly down
2  bow on tillering rack with 6 inches of draw that came in at 33 lbs. after limb tip mods.
3.  After mod, I will need to straighten limb (that is complete)
4. are limb tip after narrowing to 1/2 inch wide and thick.

Its going to take some work to get to my 40 lb at 26".  Note bow length N - N is 55 inches

[stuckinthemud]

Totally changing the subject but apple wood will bend with very little heat, just thought I’d mention it in case you fancy experimenting with a heat gun or even a kettle spout with the switch held down….

[Lost Oki]

Have a heat gun and it was fairly easy to straighten.  I am at a crossroads.  I managed to get rid of the one knot, but the second one is right at where the long taper should be so I have a short taper.  I have measured with a straight edge and I think (hope) I can get rid of the 2nd knot if I extend the 1/2x1/2 another 2 inches, then I could put a 4" taper on it rather than a 1 1/2".  Considering, but think I will wait till I get some more wood off.  The current 33 lb draw at 6 inches is way more than the 40 lb at 26" I want.

[stuckinthemud]

I have found many things that look like they will be problems disappear as you finish roughing out.