Spokeshave Help

[wvarcher]

     I recently bought a Stanley 151 spokeshave and a Hock replacement blade to use instead of the Stanley blade which comes with the 151.  I had heard nothing but great things about Hock blades, so i expected mine to work well when i put it in my 151.  So far, i cant get it to work at all.  It seems very sharp.  The hock blade is a little thicker than the Stanley blade.  Possibly, this could be a bad thing.  Everything I've read about Hock blades led me to believe they are far superior to the Stanley factory blades.  Anybody own a 151?

[ricktrojanowski]

I have a 151, but left the original blade in.  I think it works fine.  Never really mess with it other than touch it up a bit once in a while.  I use it when I'm getting close to the ring I want, but am too close to get it with the draw knife.

[wvarcher]

     Mine seemed to work ok with the factory blade in. Worked even better after i sharpened it using sandpaper. 

[richpierce]

Need more info when you say it does not cut.  is the throat open (room for chips)?

[wvarcher]

     First, thanks for responding.  Yes there seems to be enough room for shavings to clear the throat.  But, i can't even get it to make the first shaving with the Hock blade in.  It just chatters and bounces across the surface of the wood.  The Hock blade seems sharper than the stanley blade.  The bevel on both blades should be facing up when u put them in the spokeshave, right?  thx Mark

[Rich Saffold]

Flip the blade over, and set it for a very shallow cut...Sounds to me like you have it upside down, and you can also pull the spoke sbave at a 45 degree angle across the wood as well to help avoid the chatter..

[wvarcher]

  Hello Richard.  Are you saying the bevel should be facing down when it is in the spokeshave?   love that Ipe bow you made for me.  thanks, mark

[mole]

The bevel goes down.

[wvarcher]

Mole: ok, i will flip the blade over and try it tomorrow.  thx

[Rich Saffold]

Mark, Good to see you here, and thanks for the plug! You want to barely feel the blade when you run your fingers across the bottom of the spokeshave when starting to use it, and make sure the blade depth is even as well.

Rich

[richpierce]

Agree with Rich and just add you want to really press down heavily with the spokeshave to eliminate chatter.  You can also hold it at an angle to the direction of the cut.  Then make sure you are going with the grain.  On the belly this is generally from the handle toward the tips with a sapling/tree based bow.  On board bows, you must know the grain direction.

[wvarcher]

      Wow, how stupid am i?   I put the blade in with the bevel facing down this time and it  i made some shavings!  Works a lot better  that way.  Looks like i will need to file the throat opening some b4 i can use the Hock blade.  It is thicker than the Stanley.  Thanks everybody for you help!

[markinengland]

When you sharpen the blade it can help to sharpen it so that edge is slightly concave or cuved. This will help stop the corners digging in.
If you have a very flat stone it can help to run the base of the spokeshave across it (with blade out!) to true up the base and slightly polish it.
I read a good article years ago about setting up a spoke shave and followed the advice. It made a big difference. The blade will probably not be sharp enough out of the box. Sharpen it making sure the back edge is kept absolutley flat. When really sharp, strop it on leather with diamond polishing paste. If sharp enough to shave with it will take very fine shavings off and and tend to dig into grain less.
I assume this is the one with the flat base? The curved base one for insides of curves is much more difficult to use.
Mark in England

[wvarcher]

Yes, mine has a flat base.  I use the scary sharp method when sharpening my spokeshave blades.   Unfortunately, i won't be able to make bows for a couple weeks now, must work.  Thanks again, Mark.