Author Topic: Hickory Design  (Read 835 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Piddler

  • Member
  • Posts: 219
Hickory Design
« on: January 14, 2023, 09:22:16 pm »
Guys and Gals,
I am fixing to work down a piece of hickory. Over a year old so will need to dry a bit I believe. Outside is showing 8% so probably a bit more inside once worked down.
Question is what design do you guys favor. I am shooting for 55# or so at lets say 27". Stave is plenty long so in my mind I am thinking of two options at 68". 1 1/2"to mid limb to just under 1/2" at the tips or 1 3/4 Pyramid to a bit smaller tips. To add a little reflex is still in question.
Thanks
Piddler
"My goal in life is to try and be the kind of person my dog thinks I am"

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,542
Re: Hickory Design
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2023, 10:40:45 pm »
Either of those designs will work fine with hickory. You could probably go down to 66" on both designs for your 27".
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline superdav95

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,905
  • 3432614095
Re: Hickory Design
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2023, 01:03:10 am »
Either of those designs will work fine with hickory. You could probably go down to 66" on both designs for your 27".

What pat said.  If it’s good straight piece w/o any knots or weird inclusions even a recurve. 
Sticks and stones and other poky stabby things.

superdav95@gmail.com

Offline Selfbowman

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,970
Re: Hickory Design
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2023, 12:26:53 pm »
Both sound good to me but I’m not a hickory guy.
Well I'll say!!  Osage is king!!

Offline Will B

  • Member
  • Posts: 968
Re: Hickory Design
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2023, 01:03:20 pm »
Either of the two designs should work well. I would recommend heat treating some reflex using dry heat, primarily in the outer half of the limbs. Just make sure it’s good and dry. Good luck!

Offline George Tsoukalas

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,425
    • Traditional and Primitive Archers
Re: Hickory Design
« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2023, 02:47:31 pm »
I prefer 1.75" at least for hickory. My last hickory was 1.5" wide and it took more set than I like and lost some weight.

Pyramid bows should bend more just past the fades so the tiller should be more circular. There is more near handle wood so that should work more. Don't overdo it or you'll get chrysals. Bows with parallel limbs like elliptical tillers.

Make sure the hickory is at 6-8% moisture content. I have a moisture meter and keep checking as I bring the bow to full draw. If I get a reading  > than that I stop and let the stave dry on my forced hot water baseboard. Jawge
« Last Edit: January 15, 2023, 02:56:22 pm by George Tsoukalas »
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline Piddler

  • Member
  • Posts: 219
Re: Hickory Design
« Reply #6 on: January 15, 2023, 07:02:01 pm »
Thanks for the comments fellas. Decisions Decisions
Piddler
"My goal in life is to try and be the kind of person my dog thinks I am"

Offline bradsmith2010

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,187
Re: Hickory Design
« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2023, 11:10:04 pm »
I think wider is good :)

Offline Piddler

  • Member
  • Posts: 219
Re: Hickory Design
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2023, 04:04:29 pm »
Ok so wider it is. Now same width to mid limb or taper from fades.
 
For what it is worth I've only made one hickory bow and did a pyramid at 1 1/2" at the fades. The stave had some very deep grooves and high spots on the back. Kind of had a goof during tillering and it didn't come out so good. Came back later did some serious heat work and retillered. Turned out a bit better but some lessons learned there. Have better hopes for this one.
Thanks again.
Piddler
"My goal in life is to try and be the kind of person my dog thinks I am"