Sneak peek 2

[mmattockx]

This bow is 69”vs 67” of the old bow.

Ok, good. So the center is 32.5" based on your coordinate system. What was the brace height?

Where you see the tracing behind the bow is where I will remove the mass. Ok Alan and Mark from the chart would this make since?

Unless the width/thickness distribution is exactly the same between the two bows I don't think you want the same braced profile.

Mark

[Selfbowman]

8” from back of handle. I don’t normally measure it there but in this case it might be easier..

[Selfbowman]

I strung  little wiggle and set it on my tillering tree. I marked where the bow did not meet up with my traced record bow. Meaning where the mass is to be removed. I unstrung the bow took it to the bench and compared it to where I made my check marks on my chart. Thinking those numbers needed adjustments. And they con-sided where the mass needed to come off. Maybe there is something to this math stuff!🤠🤠🤠

[Selfbowman]

Eric’s Gessmo on the out side of the limb.🤠🤠🤠

[Selfbowman]

But I bought a digital caliper here are the results in thickness and width. Pardon my scribble.

Arvin, that's awesome! How on earth did you discover millimeters in Texas? 

Just for future work, normally the 0 point is taken as the center of the bow and the numbers run out to the nocks. I don't know if I have time this weekend, but I will punch those numbers into David Dewey's spreadsheet and see what it has to say. I can't add in the tip reflex, but it will give me an idea of how those look for a flat bow.

I don’t know which one is right?

A few things for weighing the pieces.

1) You don't want the rounded edges, you want a true cube (or rectangular prism) to be able to calculate the volume accurately.

2) Try the scales in grams instead of ounces, they are a much finer unit and lead to better precision.

3) You also want to make your piece as big as you can so you aren't trying to weigh something that is so light the scale can't feel it. In general, try to be over 1% of whatever the maximum scale capacity is. Another thing that helps with light pieces is to put something heavier on the scale first and zero the readout with that on the scale, then weigh the test piece from that new zero point. Most scales are not very accurate at the extremes of their range and putting something on to get yourself into the middle of the range usually gives better results.

4) Weigh the piece 5 times and average the results if you get different numbers each time.


Mark


Mark that caliper was made in China that’s why it has mm. That’s why I have it in Tx now.🤠🤠

[Selfbowman]

The chart pointed out the touchy-feely spots that needed removed.

[Selfbowman]

These numbers on the end of my caul are from center o f bow or caul.

[Bob Barnes]

How's the bow doing now?   

[Selfbowman]

Going to get back on it tomorrow probably. Been tied up with a engineer on another build.

[Selfbowman]

Ok Bob I got the bow 50@28. The bow shot 460gr 220yds into about a 2 mile an hour wind. Could be a contender but have a IBO shooter needing a bow so it will probably end up getting taken down to 44@ 28.when I finish it up I’ll post a few pictures. Right now it has taken 1/2” set. I expect more to come once shot a thousand times or so.

[Bob Barnes]

Cool Arvin...I'm thinking that the design will make it an excellent target bow and the speed will be an added benefit for flatter trajectory.  It will make your friend very happy!   

[Selfbowman]

I was told he did not want the wiggle bow.🤠 ok that bow may break a record. Some guys don’t know a good bow when they see one. Oh well.

[Selfbowman]

Here is both peek bows

[Bob Barnes]

that wiggle bow is 'straight as a stick'... it just might be the one to set a record.   

[superdav95]

Arvin.  If your buddy doesn’t want it I’ll take it!  Looks like a great bow to me.  I don’t mind a wiggle or two.  Especially in my bows.  Gives character