Rawhide question

[Muskyman]

I bought some rawhide a month or so ago and never really looked at it.got it from a place that sells traditional archery stuff. Finally unrolled it today and it’s really thin. I mean I can see my fingers through it, in an opaque kind of way. I’m sure it’s pretty tough but is that normal. I think it said that the rawhide was 1 mil thick. I don’t really know if there’s such a thing as to thin. I’m guessing it’s okay to be that thin

[bradsmith2010]

yes thin is good,,

[WhistlingBadger]

I think that's exactly what you want!

[Muskyman]

Perfect, that’s what I was hoping to hear.  On with the show.

[PaSteve]

I have some goat rawhide that is very thin and translucent. Best rawhide I've used. Sounds to me like you have some good rawhide for bow backing. I also prestretch it before I glue up.

[WhistlingBadger]

I've got a pronghorn hide in the freezer waiting for the outside temp to go above freezing so I can stretch and dry it.  It's super thin but really, really strong.  Can't wait to cut some strips and stick them on a bow.  Maybe someone will get some in the Christmas trade next year.  (Do we still do that?)

[superdav95]

Ya mike what others have said.  It’s strong stuff. I used kangaroo hide on my last bow and it was pretty thin but worked great. 

[Muskyman]

Put my rawhide on today. Might have gotten a little carried away with the glue, TB 3 also have a spot towards the tip where the rawhide took the pattern of my ace bandage. Have some glue that got onto the back of the bow close to the edge but, I’m wondering if I should leave it or try getting it off. Haven’t trimmed the rawhide off the edges yet. Probably do that tomorrow. Not super concerned about the glue or the ace bandage pattern in the rawhide but, for future reference, could that be sanded off?
All in all I’m not to unhappy with it. When I do my next one I’ll do better. It seems to be glue down good and I don’t see any air pockets, so that’s a good thing.

[JW_Halverson]

Put my rawhide on today. Might have gotten a little carried away with the glue, TB 3 also have a spot towards the tip where the rawhide took the pattern of my ace bandage. Have some glue that got onto the back of the bow close to the edge but, I’m wondering if I should leave it or try getting it off. Haven’t trimmed the rawhide off the edges yet. Probably do that tomorrow. Not super concerned about the glue or the ace bandage pattern in the rawhide but, for future reference, could that be sanded off?
All in all I’m not to unhappy with it. When I do my next one I’ll do better. It seems to be glue down good and I don’t see any air pockets, so that’s a good thing.

Yup, that old stretch bandage scars! Had it happen to me time and time again, thought it was a done deal and something I had to live with. Then I got the wild idea to use a wet sponge to dampen the rawhide surface. Just dab it with a damp sponge or wet rag, but don't leave it sopping wet. Do that every ten minutes or so until you see the rawhide begin to soften. Then leave it to dry again.

Since I use the Titebond III, I don't have to worry about the glue re-wetting and letting go.

[Muskyman]

Thanks JW, I figured someone would have a solution to my problem. I’ll give that a try.

[superdav95]

Mike.  I use horse leg wrap on mine.  It’s the thin stuff.  Dose t leave as much marks as ace baby.  It’s works really well for me.  I only leave it on for a bout 30 mins just to get it down.  Then I take it off and smooth out with my thumbs from middle out to the sides to get any marks or bubbles worked out.  Leaving it on till it’s dry will leave marks. The sponge will work too but for your next one you can avoid the marks by removing bandage sooner.   

[JW_Halverson]

Mike.  I use horse leg wrap on mine.  It’s the thin stuff.  Dose t leave as much marks as ace baby.  It’s works really well for me.  I only leave it on for a bout 30 mins just to get it down.  Then I take it off and smooth out with my thumbs from middle out to the sides to get any marks or bubbles worked out.  Leaving it on till it’s dry will leave marks. The sponge will work too but for your next one you can avoid the marks by removing bandage sooner.

+1 on that! The wrap only needs to be on until the glue sets. Your rawhide will take a good bit longer to dry out.

I am going to have to try the vet wrap material. That is the fancy colored foam-looking stuff, right, superdav95?

[superdav95]

JW,  ya the stuff I got is called “coflex”  I bought at my local feed and seed coop store.  They sell livestock meds and feed for farm animals and such.  They had these horse leg wraps there and I bough some to try last year and haven’t looked back.  They work quite well.  They aren’t sticky which is nice too they nice and thin when stretched out flat and have just the right amount of tension without leaving too many marks in your rawhide or sinew.  I’ve even tried those workout body wrap tape and found they have left residue from the adhesive on them.  These horse wraps have no residue so that’s good.    I’ve tried strips of bed sheets,  old cotton t shirts, my wife’s old leggings ace bandage you name it I’ve tried it and I like these horse leg wraps.  They are cheap and easy.  Here’s a couple close ups of this stuff. 

[Lost Oki]

Not to take away from the OP but how thick is too thick?  I have some whitetail rawhide that is definitely thicker that what has been described above, closer to.   Also, does it have to be one piece or can you use 2 pieces meeting at the handle?

[Pat B]

I only use 2 pieces of rawhide when installing on bows. It's a lot easier to deal with and by overlapping at the handle it secures it well.
 I prefer to use hide glue for rawhide and snake skins. I do wrap with strips of old cotton bed sheets but remove it after about an hour before it sets up completely. After that I look for air bubbles and excess glue pockets. I use a sharp razor and make a small slit, lengthwise and push out the air or excess glue. Once done the small slits will disappear as the glue dries.