Flattening bamboo

[BetterTrees]

So I have been really contemplating playing with hard backings and perry reflex, but a lot of things about it favor woodworking tools that I don't have.
I would love to use some bamboo, but there's no way that I'm buying some.

Today I happened upon a video with a crazy genius jig for flattening bamboo that I have never heard about or seen referenced anywhere.
https://youtu.be/VZChUTt_NOc
Are YouTube links okay here?
This guy has some serious skills.
How does everyone flatten their bamboo? I can get a flat side to glue it to with the tools at my disposal, but I just wrapped my head around a way to handle the bamboo that isn't absurdly labor intensive with a huge chance of ruining material.

[Hamish]

 Thanks for posting the video. This method would be really good for flattening a lot of boo at one time, or at least getting ready for fine tuning with a hand plane.

I think a lot of people, especially the inexperienced can make mistakes being in too much of a hurry, or trying to bring it to a finished level, with a coarse tool(eg a powered plane). 

The best approach is covered in Dean Torges video, about the bamboo backed bow. There is more than one way to skin a cat, and they will all get you to a piece that is ready to glue onto a stave. Not all methods are equal, or as elegant as Dean's approach. Dean"s video covers what you do, and why you do it. Lots of little tips and tweaks, templates, so you can avoid pitfalls and inelegant design.

All quick methods run a high risk of ruining material, especially if you are inexperienced.
Labour intensive methods like hand planing(no power) will get you there, but there is much less risk ruining material.

The best approach is to remove waste, and flatten with power tools(bandsaw, or jointer, belt sander or electric plane) keep slightly oversized. Fine tune with sharp hand planes, just before glue up.

[Kidder]

That’s an interesting method with the table saw jig. And effective. I would argue that the router groves are completely unnecessary, at least for a boo backed flatbow.
No matter how you do it flattening boo the right way is labor intensive. What you didn’t see in this video is any tillering of the boo back before glue up, which is something I always do to some extent or another.
Dean Torges video and method, using a jointer to flatten them, are a great way to get the boo thinned and flat. I’ve also used a bandsaw to simply cut the excess off. I know that it can be done with hand planes and rasps, but I’ve never done it that way. Regardless of anything I couldn’t do without a belt sander to get them flattened, thinned and tillered. I also use calipers to get my final thickness even.

[Badger]

   My method is much easier and faster than that I think. I make 2 passes on the bandsaw following straight down the edge, one pass on each side. Then I just put it on the belt sander with 40 grit paper. Less than 10 min per slat.

[Eric Krewson]

His method if too much work. I do it much like badger, cut down each side down with a bandsaw with the bamboo slightly tilted to only cut half the width at a time, a few passes on the jointer, cut out my bow pattern and make every edge 1/16" thick on my belt sander with a 36-grit belt.

[superdav95]

I do similar to you guys except I use a draw knife to get roughly close to flat knocking off all the inner nodes.  Then I go right to the 36 grit belt drum sander to make short work of it getting it nice and flat.  Some insights though if I may.  I’ve noticed that bamboo has some variations in thickness naturally.  So selecting the right slat is important I believe.  Also if making a multi piece bamboo using slats be sure to use matching sections of same poles and not mismatch them.  So starting from large round poles (usually 4-5” dia) mosso poles I hand split first in half then into quarters.  Be sure to examine the boo strips carefully for natural splits and cracks.  If your getting fresh bamboo know out the center nodes with a long piece of rebar to allow it to get airflow through it as it drys. If working with fairly green bamboo you’ll need to temper or heat treat it.  I heat treat all my bamboo that is use for bow limbs.  Green or seasoned.  There are pros and cons to working with each.  If after taking your slat to the belt sander you then decide to temper it or heat treat it you’ll notice it expands a bit and will actually crown a little on the inner belly side that you’ve sanded. This is a result of the slight expansion of the cells when steam is released.  You’ll actually be able to sometimes hear or see the steam releasing from your piece of bamboo when it’s heated. To rectify the crowning  You would just resend flat before using to get flat glue surface ready for backing.  Bamboo behaves differently when heat treated.  It’s significant and surprises me every time with the capabilities it has for essentially being grass.  It’s good stuff. 

Dave

[Kidder]

   My method is much easier and faster than that I think. I make 2 passes on the bandsaw following straight down the edge, one pass on each side. Then I just put it on the belt sander with 40 grit paper. Less than 10 min per slat.

This is a much better description of what I do most of the time. Except you’re way more efficient than I am - I usually spend 30 minutes plus on the belt sander getting it thinned and tillered. That or I’m just too cheap to replace my sanding belt’s frequently enough.

[Eric Krewson]

I use Zirconia belts; they are worth the extra cost over AO.

[Badger]

I use Zirconia belts; they are worth the extra cost over AO.

  Good quality sandpaper weather belts or sheets is far more economical that the cheap stuff. It will outlast the cheap stuff at least 50 to 1.