Made Some Firewood Today

[Buckskinner]

Well, had a pin knot give way today, split top 1/4 of the arrow to boot.  Was worried about that area since I started one the bow.  Got about 1,000 shots before it let go so at least has some fun with it.

Working on a bow now and almost to long stringing it.  After this one blew up I noticed a few small pin knots, much smaller than the one the that made kindling today.

This one concerns me and wondering how to approach it.  It's right on edge and at inner/mid -limb area. 

I have 2 others, one at mid limb and one at outer.  Both about half inch from edge, but very small.  Do I need to worry about these?  Both are shaggy hickory.

Thanks!

[George Tsoukalas]

I don't understand the photo.

I always compensate for knots. Leave the area  wider and tiller that area just bit stiffer than the rest of the limb.

Jawge

[meanewood]

I don't think that failure was due to that knot.
As for the other one on the bow your making, that knot is hardly worth making allowances for IMO.

[Hamish]

For pins near/on the edge, I always like extra meat around that area, both on the side and the belly. Like a big pimple.

If you are down to your final width, you can't do much there. Where it comes out on the belly I wouldn't remove any wood from that spot, whilst you remove wood from everywhere else on the limb as you bring it to your desired poundage.

[bradsmith2010]

I like rawhide, then a wrap aFter tiller

[superdav95]

I second the raw hide wrap on uncertain wood.  Better safe then sorry.  I’ve got away with not doing on some less then pristine wood and had some lift a splinter or break.  A break like yours from what I can see could be more to do with other factors at play as mentioned too.  Best of luck on new build. 

[Hamish]

I don't understand why so many bowyers, even with lots of bows under their belts don't bother to do things properly in the first place. Sure you can slap some rawhide on and hope for the best, its less effort to compensate for knots from the beginning.

I too tried to cut corners, but after wasting otherwise decent staves that broke in tension or started to chrysal at pin knots, I totally avoided problems after changing my ways. Staves and more importantly your time are valuable. You don't get time back in your life.

[Buckskinner]

The second photo above shows the pin that is of most concern, it is very small but centered on top of pic running through corner of belly to side.  It's in a good location as it's inner to mid limb but still a concern.  The third photo shows a tiny pin center of pic and lower third.  I have 2 of these in similar location, mid limb and outer.  As suggested, I'm going to leave a little more mass around these where I can.

Attached is a better pic of bow that popped, definitely influence by the knot.  Right in the center of the disruption on outer limb...  Was the second bow I've built and sad to see it break but learning from it.

[Jim Davis]

What kind of wood is that? This  last image looks like it has a weather check running to the right from the knot and also looks like the bow was stored outside in the weather for a year or two.

I don't understand why that surface looks so rough and unfinished.

[Buckskinner]

It's shagbark hickory and that's remnants of the cambium after staining. here's a pic from when intact.

[RyanY]

Bizarre. Looks like a tension break which is unlikely in hickory. So maybe due to grain but how dry was it? Looks like it started at the right side that’s away from the knot.

[Jim Davis]

Agree with Ryan. Doesn't look like the way hickory would break. I have hickory bows with nasty grain run-out that have held together just fine. Something out of the ordinary here.

[Hamish]

Hickory is more forgiving than most woods in tension. That being said its like all wood, given a flaw or more stress than the design can take it will eventually break.

I no longer use hickory with even a tiny pin knot in it for backings, unless it will end up in a non bending handle section.
I mainly make backed narrow elb less than an inch wide.

[bownarra]

Hickory is more forgiving than most woods in tension. That being said its like all wood, given a flaw or more stress than the design can take it will eventually break.

I no longer use hickory with even a tiny pin knot in it for backings, unless it will end up in a non bending handle section.
I mainly make backed narrow elb less than an inch wide.

Absolutely. Even the mythical tension properties of hickory have their limits
I also agree that it doesn't look like a 'normal' hickory break. On a properly looked after self stave I wouldn't have worried about that knot.

[BowEd]

Small pin knots like that have never amounted into a breakage on any of my hickory bows.
Any wood can get too dry.
I've seen post holes in hickory that will break them though.