Author Topic: Twisted maple stave question  (Read 1231 times)

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Offline Gingerbeard20

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Twisted maple stave question
« on: March 13, 2022, 10:24:42 pm »
So I cut debarked and split a relativelyclean maple stave last weekend, was really excited until I split it and the grain has a 90 degree twist over the length of the stave. So after some searching through old treads on here I think I should just roll with it until I get to floor tillering stage and then try to heat it and un twist it. Is this the right answer or is there another way or is it firewood?

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Twisted maple stave question
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2022, 10:43:39 pm »
90 degrees is a lot. Sure try it if you want. Frankly, I would look for a better stave. Jawge
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Black Moshannon

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Re: Twisted maple stave question
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2022, 12:31:04 pm »
I just cut down a maple stave with the same issue only my twist is probably 40 degrees. It’s been drying for a couple weeks tied down to a form and the twist doesn’t seem to have increased

Offline Gingerbeard20

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Re: Twisted maple stave question
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2022, 04:43:05 am »
Im gonna try it just to see if I can, does maple respond better to steam or dry heat? Should I work it down to a floor tiller stage while it is still green? Thanks for the help

Offline superdav95

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Re: Twisted maple stave question
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2022, 09:38:26 am »
Maple likes steam from my experience. And usually responds well to it.  I try to keep it to a single growth ring where I can.  Go a little past where you want to end up in the untwist as it will return some of the natural twist.  I’ve never tried oil and heat bending on maple before but I can’t see why it would work.  Being that it’s still green if it were me I would put on a form/caul to shape you want and clamp it down a hair past the direction or the correction you want to make with some wood wedges and hold in that position and let it dry out in the sun to for a few weeks.  Seal up the ends and back with sealer.    Keep the portion of the wood you want to clamp somewhat blocky for now as it may get marked up with clamps with all the pressure to untwist.  Once you get down below 10% mc I’d do some heat treatment on it and set the bow straight.  It will hold the shape when set.  I’ve corrected many green white wood bows this way and it works.  There are many methods of heat treatment you can use.   I’m sure others will chime in.  I’ve done long open pit with hot coals and some using heat gun in winter months.  They all work.  Hope this helps. 
Sticks and stones and other poky stabby things.

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