The time consuming process mostly for me making shoot shafts is the reducing spine process.I use the spin them in a drill process while keeping the natural full length taper on them.Although you can make parrallel shafts with them if you want and they will still shoot fine.
You kinda want to sneak up on your spine slowly much like tillering bows to desired draw weight.
If shoot is oversized after being dried and the bark removed I'll start out with 60 grit to get within 5#'s of my intended spine.Go down to 80 grit then 100 grit then 220 grit for final sanding.By then usually all major sanding scratches will be removed.
You should have a spine tester to do this but not totally necessary.It can be done more quickly though I've found.
I made my spiner for $20.00.
From this book which cost $30.00.There are many other projects in there though which are very useful.Overall though buying a spiner will cost well over $100.00.
I've made dozens and dozens of arrows with that $50.00 investment and the pay back will keep rising the more I make.
I grain weigh them also while I'm reducing.There will be a grain weight that the finished ones generally fall into on the certain species your making shafts from.Once that is achieved I start to spine test them.That grain weight usually is about 50 grains more than a finished one is.
The work is not done yet though of course.Field tip needs to be glued on.Self nock cut in and then wrapped.Bare shaft shot.Then finally fletched.
