Hickory Board Bow - Tillering Input

[Buckskinner]

Been searching and researching for months on Primitive Archer but this is my first post, amazing how much information is in the archives!  I didn't want to be repetitive in my questions that could easily be looked up.  But now I need some eyes and opinions from the guru's!

This is my second attempt at a bow, first was with a maple board that I knew had some flaws in board as well as build and I was correct as it blew up after 4 shots... This one is out of a nice hickory board, 68" n/n with a 1" offset at handle so the top limb is 1" longer (right).  Fades are 1 7/8" and tapers at half of limb to .5". I'm shooting for 50 lbs at 28", right now it's at 50 at 26" and 1/8" positive tiller, so have a little to play with. I've been looking at tons of pics trying to get an eye for this and I don't know where I'm at.  I did make a gizmo and it helped a ton!

Couple things I noticed on pic that I didn't in live action is that I'm pulling off-center a bit and that the right limb seems twisted.  I believe that is due to the notch in bow cradle being off kilter, but I will confirm that tonight. 

I appreciate any input!

[Pat B]

Get the outer right limb bending more and look again. The early bend on the left limb looks good. Might be a bit still in the outer limb.

[bentstick54]

I see the same thing Pat B see’s but pictures and your lighting can be a little deceiving. See how the picture shows the shadow behind the right limb but not the left. Are you totally squared up with your camera and the bow? Just thinking out loud. Since you’re approaching your final draw weight/length it’s safer to double check.

[Buckskinner]

Thanks guys.  I looked at it tonight, but probably won't have time to work on it.  I will fix lighting and take another look and play with that outer limb.  I did see a little twist in the nock on the bottom limb that I didn't notice before.. (not sure the term). 

This is fun stuff! And a lot cheaper than building flintlocks.  I harvested a hickory a few weeks ago and have a half dozen or so nice staves drying. Made a redneck kiln over my shop furnace and have 2 roughed out bows that I'm taking weights on every week.  Hopefully can start another soon.

[Morgan]

Same advice as above. You’re on the right track. Welcome!

[Buckskinner]

Played around with it a little, hit the top limb (right) outer a bit and a tiny bit on the lower outer.  Set up better lighting and pulled from center of bow this time.  Looks quite a bit different to me. 

Best way to learn is to be corrected when wrong, so here it goes.  To me I see both outers need a little and mid limb on top?  I do have a little propellor (?) at both tips, more on the bottom and it's going opposite as it shows in pic.  I'm still trying to get my cradle to center correctly over my scale/tree trunk, I might have to shim it to move the handle out.

Thanks again for any help.

[TimBo]

At this point I would take a photo of it being drawn by hand.  You need the pressure point on the grip to be exactly how you will draw it, which can be tricky on the tree.  Make a temporary nock point so that is accurate too. 

[Pat B]

Much better. Just make the adjustments as you see them. I think you are correct.  is the twist in the limbs unbraced or only under tension? If only when braced, check the limb thickness from side to side. If one side is thicker the limb will twist as it is drawn.

[Buckskinner]

The twist is only when braced.  I will check limb side thickness with a caliper instead of fingers.  I may end up shaving the poundage down a bit, I haven't drawn anything but one of those newfangled bows in decades and that 50 feels a bit steep vs the 70 with most of that let-off...

[bentstick54]

I agree with PatB, looks much better and I think your assessment is correct. How far is it pulled in that last picture on the tree? Be careful how much you takeoff  the last 6” or 8” of the tips, as you increase the draw length the automatically come around a bit more because of string angle. I like to leave mine just a little stiff.

[Buckskinner]

I think I had it about 22" there.  Worked on it some more and I think I have it where I want it, after final tillering it's at 48# at 28".  Threw a few arrows with and I am pretty dang pleased!  Very smooth and quiet and I can shoot it fairly comfortably.  The maple bow was God awful to shoot, twanged and hand shock and then quickly blew up...

Thanks for all the input, guys you helped a lot. I think I'll be into this hobby for a while!

[Will B]

Good advice from the guys who responded. Best of luck it looks like a nice hickory bow!  Welcome to PA.

[Digital Caveman]

It now looks like it is bending more in the lower limb, I'm not sure that's ideal.

[George Tsoukalas]

I agree with Tim. Have someone take a digi photo of you drawing it. Primitive ha?
Jawge

[H Rhodes]

Tim x 3. My last touches to tillering come from photos taken when the bow is drawn in hand - which will be slightly different from what you see on the tree. Nice job and welcome to the addiction.