Tiller advice needed

[stuckinthemud]

This is a bit of a prototype.  Its Scotch Broom.  Please don't comment on the splice,  I haven't cleaned off the excess glue or pen marks. Currently 20lb @ 20 inches 64 inch ttt, no set yet, stiff tips.  I counted 18 significant knots with a slight weak point out of the lower fade
My feeling is the outer thirds need to move more but I'm really not sure


I posted a left and a right side view as the swoops distort the curve a little bit

 

[RyanY]

Both fades look like they’re bending too much for that width profile. The outer half-2/3rds needs to come around more as it looks like it’s hardly bending. Difficult to do with the knots though

[Del the cat]

Yup... outer thirds need to move more...
What is the front profile like??!!!  
Stop me someone, I'm only kidding. I don't care a rat's nether regions!
Del
PS Del's had too much white vino with his pasta! (Damn lightweight )

[stuckinthemud]

Me and the wood had an argument,  I wanted parallel sides, the wood insisted on constant taper from fade to tip. The wood won.

[bownarra]

Steady, steady....don't pull it so far! It's only bending in the fades both limbs.

[boomhowzer]

Me and the wood had an argument,  I wanted parallel sides, the wood insisted on constant taper from fade to tip. The wood won.

Haha! That's hilarious. I know exactly what you mean. For me personally, I don't take up an argument with wood unless we're sitting around the camp fire..

[Don W]

And... In the top picture you have a hinge starting in my favorite spot, right out of the top fade. It's out of the bottom fade in the bottom picture.

[scp]

There is a hinge. Tape it up and scrape all other places. The mid-limbs need to bend the most. At that length, tips do not need to be stiff.

[George Tsoukalas]

The wood should almost always win.
I agree scrape pff some wood from mid limb on.
Exercise the stave 0-20 times at short pulls between removal sessions.
Jawge

[Dances with squirrels]

We need a picture of it unbraced. That's the baseline that should be used to judge how the limbs are flexing, or not. Without it, we have no way of gauging it accurately. Without it we're pretty much clueless. Do you want tillering advice from a bunch of clueless fellas? I know I don't.   

[SLIMBOB]

+1 dws.  The hinge could be just a kink.

[scp]

If there is a kink, it should be thicker there. It also should have been corrected. It's unreasonable for a spliced bow to have a kink there by design.

[SLIMBOB]

Who said anything about by design?  You simply can’t judge the tiller of a bow without seeing it unbraced. Now you can make guesses. But until you know what the unbraced bow looks like, any judgement on the tiller is just a guess. Are you arguing the contrary?

[scp]

It's always nice to have an unbraced photo. I would love to ask for one. But as a person who never bother to provide photos, mainly for privacy reasons, I usually don't.

It would be reasonable to expect a person who ask for a tillering advise to mention such a kink even before asked. He even asked us to ignore the sloppy splice job, when it looks good enough for me. When I said by design, I just meant "knowingly". Most people who bother to splice limbs would not knowingly use a limb with a kink. Just my common sense expectation.

[SLIMBOB]

That comment from you was argumentative, as most of your posts seem to be. But hey, maybe you know a few things about tillering bows that I don’t. And I am eager to learn from you if so. Is a bow, with a perfectly circular drawn profile, perfectly tillered?  I’m interested to know your take on this.