World’s Ugliest R/D at 27 inches draw!

[Tommy D]

Tomorrow ... right now it’s time for that cold beer that’s been eyeing me up all day!

[Tommy D]

Ok - I braced it - it’s 6.5” at the fades braced. It is a b#%h to brace.

I drew it to 24 inches - and it’s 60# there. These R/D bow really throw me off with such high early draw weight.

It’s a weird shape as Ryan predicted!

Unbraced it and it’s taken a little set - most of which I think is coming from where it turns back from deflex to reflex... I think?!

I suppose I want her bending a little more either side of this right?

I will not do anything till I hear from the experts!

 

[RyanY]

It’s probably pretty close to your goal of 70# currently. If the amount of set is reasonable you could pull to 70# and see where you end up. I think you might be able to squeeze the last inch or two out of the inner limb near the fades.

[Tommy D]

Ok - I braced it - it’s 6.5” at the fades braced. It is a b#%h to brace.

I drew it to 24 inches - and it’s 60# there. These R/D bow really throw me off with such high early draw weight.

It’s a weird shape as Ryan predicted!

Unbraced it and it’s taken a little set - most of which I think is coming from where it turns back from deflex to reflex... I think?!

I suppose I want her bending a little more either side of this right?

I will not do anything till I hear from the experts!

 

[Badger]

   I honestly did not like the shape of your form I prefer the dip quite a bit further out toward the tips. But on the good side if you make it out to 28" it should be a fast bow. The profile is a bitch to tiller out as I am sure you are discovering.

[Tommy D]

   I honestly did not like the shape of your form I prefer the dip quite a bit further out toward the tips. But on the good side if you make it out to 28" it should be a fast bow. The profile is a bitch to tiller out as I am sure you are discovering.

I also thought that the dip was too far in - but I read somewhere from someone on this forum that having the dip in the inner third was the way to get a fast bow. They were also the ones recommending a form over the system with posts. I have to say that the form has really created a very even/ symmetrical bow shape - and they aren’t that hard to make.

I do agree though that most r/d bow images I looked at seemed to have the dip about half way.

I guess we will see how it shoots!

It’s not my favourite shape that’s for sure, but let’s see how it shoots.

[simk]

I've made very similar profiles.
I wouldn't touch mid to outers anymore but would get the rest of the bend from fades to mid.
my2c

[Tommy D]

It’s probably pretty close to your goal of 70# currently. If the amount of set is reasonable you could pull to 70# and see where you end up. I think you might be able to squeeze the last inch or two out of the inner limb near the fades.

I am happy to trade a few pounds for better tiller - just don’t want to come in at 40#s trying to get there! I’ve definitely underestimated the early draw weight vs final draw on the R/D profile before

[Tommy D]

I've made very similar profiles.
I wouldn't touch mid to outers anymore but would get the rest of the bend from fades to mid.
my2c

Many thanks - how do they/ should they shoot?

[simk]

You might loose a few pounds getting the bend more to the inners but you won't loose a lot of performace because you'll gain efficiency at the same time...
they are super fast and dry shooters - I like them a lot, especially on lower drawweights 

[BowEd]

Sound advice I would say.They do tiller different than regular side view straight or reflexed self bows as far as removal goes I think.
Full draw does'nt look to bad.

[RyanY]

The inner limbs are your widest part too and there’s not much change from the original profile so they can probably bend a bit more without taking set. Your outer limbs could also bend a hair more I think. Being a narrow pyramid taper without needle like tips, the tiller shape would have more bend in the outer limbs if a straight longbow profile.

[Tommy D]

The inner limbs are your widest part too and there’s not much change from the original profile so they can probably bend a bit more without taking set. Your outer limbs could also bend a hair more I think. Being a narrow pyramid taper without needle like tips, the tiller shape would have more bend in the outer limbs if a straight longbow profile.

Do you mean more bend in outer limbs than a straight longbow?

[Tommy D]

Is some set inevitable? Do glue ups like this invariably result in some reflex being pulled out? I’ve lost about 3/4 of an inch and am at 26 inches and 65 lbs ...

Gonna shape the handle and put some arrows through it, sand it and then fine tune anything...

[Tommy D]

Is there a competition for the World’s Ugliest Bow on PA? I think I am really in the running with this one!

I’ve played with the tiller a little and brought it down to 60lbs at 27”. With hindsight I think my tips bent too much already for the poundage I was after and I think that I probably took too much off the where the deflex turns to reflex ...

I had pre- tapered both the core and the belly - if I ever use this form again, and profile, I won’t taper the belly wood.

All that being said, it’s so damn ugly I think I will make another form based on what I have learn, I would move the curve further out and I would also have more reflecting curve in the outers. These ended up very straight ... and I think contribute to the difficulty I had balancing the tiller.

I am wondering whether in an ideal world, at brace the bow should retain a slight reflex curve. This all came out as I tried to balance my overly weak tips with the poundage I was after.

Anyways .... it has pulled out about an 1 1/4 of the original layup, and it does seem to throw arrows just fine.

Been shooting some 750 grain arrows with 300 grain points and about 1 in 3 is blowing out the other side of my target ... so I shouldn’t be too disappointed with it I guess!