looks good congrats,,
Don't see that every day. Very special...thanks for posting.
Thank you! It means a lot to get such positive feedback from everyone. Its a little intimidating for me posting my bows on here because of how much I admire the work of all the members here.
I think you did an excellent job. Tiller looks great. Well done on all aspects.
I agree. Thats the best bend I've ever seen on a penobscot
Awesome bow! Great bend. Looks like it would be very challenging to tiller but you obviously have that figured out. Thanks for posting
Very good looking work. Yes, that f/d looks spot on.
Thank you all so much! It really isn't awful to tiller. I like to do the main bow out to full draw before even starting the mini bow. I do a really good thickness floor tiller on the mini bow and then attach the two together. I made a few scrapes on the main bow to tweak it once the two were attached, but for the most part it was finished before they came together. Adjusting the tension on the strings connecting the two bows can really change the tiller to get it where I want it. The downside is in having to check tiller and potentially make tension adjustments to those strings on the fly every time I string it. That part is awful.
the hemp cord in the mini bow gives a nice look. thanks for posting again
Thank you! Initially I was not going to wrap the mini in the hemp cord, but I wasn't getting enough draw weight added from it so I debated starting over on another billet before coming up with the idea to wrap it out for function as much as the design element. It took me awhile to do, its something like 175 feet of cordage wrapped over and over, but as soon as it was done and I looked at it I knew it was the right choice. It added in some weight between the cord and the TBIII to keep it secure, but in my mind added weight on the mini doesn't have that big of an impact on the performance. I have 0 science to back that up, so I could be wrong there.
Spot on full draw on your bow and nice work using the hemp cord and mini bow.In my experiences of making red elm bows I usually had to make the limbs close to 2" wide at least to mid limb at 64" to 66" length to get at least a 50# bow.Still a sreviceable bow but I don't really care for limbs that wide myself.That's just me.It does'nt take extreme designs very well IMO.I have a lot of it growing around me here.It will gain some poundage from heat treating.It is of such a light weight density type wood and lowest of any type elm I've made bows from,but good enough for some FG makers to use it as a core wood yet.
I've often thought of sinewing it sometime but never tried.
Thanks. I totally agree that it is such a light density wood, but I enjoyed working with it. Then again I also always do like 35-45# and never go any higher. My opinion my be different if I did