TB3 for sinew.

[Digital Caveman]

This already has heated in reflex, I was hoping the sinew would keep that from pulling out. 

How is this different than gluing on a hickory backing as far as moisture goes?  I would think the glue and sinew would dry together, wet sinew would keep the glue moist, right? 

In hindsight I do see that rawhide would have worked as well, O well, I'll just put it out in the sun and wind this week. 

[Fox]

Would you put a pot in your full kiln if it only looked dry?   

 


That's a great quote Pat can I use that?

[BowEd]

This already has heated in reflex, I was hoping the sinew would keep that from pulling out. 

How is this different than gluing on a hickory backing as far as moisture goes?  I would think the glue and sinew would dry together, wet sinew would keep the glue moist, right? 

In hindsight I do see that rawhide would have worked as well, O well, I'll just put it out in the sun and wind this week.

Wet sinew will have a lot more moisture in it than a wood backing.Tillering too quick will stretch your sinew into a set never getting it back.IE....You will lose your reflex.
Extra reflex in working limbs does not deter stack either.Lowering full draw string angle does.Flipping tips and quite severely on a 54" bow for a 26" to 27" full draw would help for stacking.

[Allyn T]

This already has heated in reflex, I was hoping the sinew would keep that from pulling out. 

How is this different than gluing on a hickory backing as far as moisture goes?  I would think the glue and sinew would dry together, wet sinew would keep the glue moist, right? 

In hindsight I do see that rawhide would have worked as well, O well, I'll just put it out in the sun and wind this week.

Wet sinew will have a lot more moisture in it than a wood backing.Tillering too quick will stretch your sinew into a set never getting it back.IE....You will lose your reflex.
Extra reflex in working limbs does not deter stack either.Lowering full draw string angle does.Flipping tips would help for stacking.

I was wondering why he thought general reflex would help with stack as well

[PatM]

I don't have the time, I am moving in 3 weeks, and I will have to stop bow work at the end of August.  Also, gelatin is moisture sensitive.

  None of these things are impediments.

[Digital Caveman]

I figured extra reflex will add more early draw weight, and that means you wouldn't feel as much change in weight later in the draw. 

@ PatM, thank you, but the hide glue simply can't properly harden in time where I am going, and if this bow goes south I need time to make another.  None of toughs will be impediments when I have enough time, so I will plan on using hide glue on the next sinew project.

@ Fox, Pottery is my primary craft.

The die is cast anyway, I probably won't get stellar results, but good is good, and it is an auxiliary measure anyway.  I'll start tillering after 10 - 15 days in the sun and wind. 

Thank you all for your input.
Might also put it in my kiln shed when I fire this week.

[PatM]

TB and sinew take longer to dry than hide glue.   Hide glue and sinew will safely dry in about 10 days.

[Digital Caveman]

I thought it would be weeks or months.

[PatM]

It may continue to  cure but it's still safe to shoot.   Hide glue actually is at peak all around  strength  when it's around 17% moisture.

[BowEd]

I thought it would be weeks or months.

The outcome of your situation is this.2mm thick of sinew is not much really.It's enough to protect a questionable back from breaking though,and it will dry rather quickly no matter what type of glue you use.Although to get the best from sinew hide glue works in partnership a lot better with sinew than TB3 at inducing reflex while drying.It should dry within 3 to 4 weeks,but it will not induce all that much sustained reflex because it is'nt thick enough.
Some Korean horn bows are able to get away with almost that thin of a layer but the have horn for the compression protection.
I've seen a fella overly stretch rawhide clamping and tying the ends in place while glueing it in place in a reverse brace profile.The problem with that procedure is that rawhides' texture is different than sinew and it will take a set easier than sinew with no return or permanent set.All things being dry of course.
It's impossible to rush these things and get maximum benefits.Good luck with your build.

[bownarra]

2mm sinew and collagen based glue would be fully dry in 2 weeks. TB will take longer....
Lots of misunderstanding going on I'd listen to the advise you've been given

[Eric Krewson]

Ed Scott used wood glue on all his sinew backed bows, seems like it worked OK for him.

When one of these questions comes up I wonder how many of the people giving advice have actually tried wood glue with sinew, I haven't, I always used knox so I don't feel qualified to give a definitive answer based only on an opinion. I have used TB for sinew wraps on suspect limb cracks but that doesn't qualify.

I never give advice unless I have actual first hand experience about the area in question. For instance; if someone asks about hackberry bow dimensions I stay quiet, I have never made a hackberry bow.

[Digital Caveman]

I'd listen to the advise you've been given

Yes, I will, I was really just wondering if there where any problems I should be aware of, or if anyone had any experience with the combination. 

it will not induce all that much sustained reflex because it isn't thick enough.

I used the sinew mostly to prevent the heated in reflex from  pulling back out, and to protect the highly crowned back, also I am just learning sinew.

It seems that the consensus is that hide glue is best, but wood glue is ok?

[Pat B]

Maybe if Mike Yancy sees this he will chime in about Ed Scott's TBIII/ sinew backed bows. I think Mike has also used TBIII for sinew backed bows.

[PatM]

Pearlie once said that a TB and sinew backed bow shoots like  a snakeskin backed bow with the body of the snake still present.  Or words to that effect.