First Bow Questions

[csmcartor]

I posted a long time ago, but this is my first post in a while. I've hunted with and shot modern bows for a while but want to get into building, shooting, and eventually hunting with self bows.

I started my first about a year ago. It's don its way to being a hickory pyramid bow. I got it roughed out, floor tillered, and had made a string and started tillering. Then my string started fraying so I quit until I could make a new one. I got distracted by having another baby and finishing my masters degree and sort of abandoned the project for a bit.

I just broke it out, made a new string and am going to work on final tillering. I'm shooting for 35 pounds at 29 1/2 inches. Right now it's 35 at 19 inches (I'm not pulling it past 35 pounds). Before I get too much further, I wanted to ask a couple of questions.

1. Should I tiller both limbs evenly or leave one stiffer than the other. The limbs are of equal length, and the handle doesn't bend. Any thoughts?

2. What's a good starting point as far as shafts (length, spine, etc.) I'd love to get started building some arrows so I can shoot the bow as soon as it's done, but I'm not sure what shafts to order. I'm planning on getting a test pack with a few different spines, so I just need a range for now.

I'll try to get a picture of bow up this afternoon. It's not pretty, but hopefully it will be functional.

[Eric Krewson]

A tillering gizmo will help you get an even bend on your limbs with no weak spots as you drop the poundage. Making one is easy, here is how to make one and use one.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,61422.0.html

[Morgan]

+1 on the gizmo. Eric sharing that little contraption has led to a lot of successful bows. I like to tiller both even as I can get them, almost always will wind up with one limb just a tad stiffer. Finish your handle last so the however final tiller winds up chooses top limb.

[PaSteve]

 +2 on the tillering gizmo. It was a game changer for me. After a bit your eyes will start to see the bend and the gizmo confirms what you're seeing.
 As far as a test kit goes if you wind up 35#@29.5 inches I would suggest 35-40, 40-45, & 45-50. You will need at least a 30" (bop) arrow. Most test kits give a choice of 3 different spines. All this will depend on how close to center your arrow pass is cut if at all and what weight field tip you use. These numbers are for a standard 125 grain field point and a 30"+ finished arrow. I would also leave the shaft full length to begin with. You can always shorten as needed. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[bownarra]

Lower limb should bea fraction stiffer as you don't pull the bow from the center.
Shafts 4- 45# spine. Don't waste your time getting different spines. Get them all the same, as long as they are 32" length you will be able to get them shooting out of your bow by adjusting point weight and or shaft length.

[csmcartor]

A tillering gizmo will help you get an even bend on your limbs with no weak spots as you drop the poundage. Making one is easy, here is how to make one and use one.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,61422.0.html

Thanks! I actually have one you sent me after I got my stave roughed out. It has made tillering super easy so far!

[csmcartor]

Thanks for all the replies so far. I'm going to wait until I finish tillering to order my arrow shafts just in case I end up missing my target weight. I'm excited to be getting close to finishing my first bow (assuming I don't mess it up from here). It's been a fun process so far and I'm already thinking about the next one.

[Eric Krewson]

I have sent so many of them out I forget where they went, over 300 so far.