Best time for belly splits

[Piddler]

Guys quick question. Is there a best time for belly splits using wedges etc not the saw. Such as when fresh cut or after 2 or 3 months or after a year or
Thanks
Piddler

[Hamish]

Easier to split when green.

Belly splits are very temperamental at any time though.  Practice on your worst quarters first.

[HH~]

No doubt, when its green.

HH~

[gifford]

Belly splits are always tempting, sometimes easy - other times wow, that didn't turn out like I thought it would.

Although each of us has their own way of doing things, mine is to use my eastwing hatchet and two pound hammer to start the split and then switch to a 'froe' and hammer. It's a slow go and it's a good idea to have a helper keeping an eye on things as well. Be ready to call it quits if the split starts to go awry. Better to keep a good one than to have two mediocre ones. YMMV

Regarding timing of the split, generally I do it when they are recently cut but have on occasion did a split on a thoroughly seasoned one. Can't say which is better.

[Piddler]

Thanks Fellas
Piddler

[Hamish]

+1 with Giff. I use a froe too.  Technically you can steer the split with a froe. That might work well with straight grained oak, for chairmaking, but not always good with gnarley  osage.

I even resort to using cold chisels to tap away on the growth rings on the end grain, to start the split, then keep working down the growth ring on both sides as the split continues. Very slow but it does increase success(not always though).

[Piddler]

Hamish been thinking about trying the same on the sides. Gonna have to get a froe I guess. Been thinking about cutting into the side on the growth ring with a die grinder and cut off wheel just to weaken that point a bit.
Piddler

[Pappy]

I have never seen much difference, green or dry, I usually use and slim ax and just work down the sides after I pick the ring I want, most times it will split right down the ring or close unless it has a knot of something weird  going on inside as Osage tends to have. One thing is for sure you have to decide if it is worth the risk, most times it works but sometimes it don't and you have to be willing to except that fact.
 Pappy

[Hamish]

Re: froes I saw some old one's with a curved blades, of different radius's that follow the growth ring on the end grain, instead of being straight. Match the tools radius to the growth, and you get a consistent depth for the top spilts, and a clean spilt along the growth rings on the belly split.

Maybe one day I will get around to having a go making one like that from spring steel.

One of the things I don't like about many modern froes is the handle and how it joins.They tend to be round, with no taper to mechanically lock the handle in and stop it from slipping or rotating, just a bit  of pipe welded to the blade.   I think a square or rectangular socket, with a taper as well would be better.

[Hawkdancer]

I have one roughed out from very old spring steel, with the end socket to take the handle.  One question is how much bevel to grind in, and whether to heat treat it?  I think I still have the other end of the spring as well.
Hawkdancer

[HH~]

Yep,
Pappy done a couple and i think there is at least 50 belly splits we did after this last cutting. Once he gets that ring loose with hatchet it usually takes that split on cleaner stuff. Small ring and knotty Hedge  its a crap shoot and thats green. It’ll pop good dry too dont get me wrong. I think it just does string as bad green.

HH~

[bownarra]

You can drill holes along your intend split line to make it travel where you want.
Wood splits best green. Certainly with less effort anyway. Ask anyone who splits lot of firewood by with an axe

[gutpile]

when splitting staves . I've found very dry splits the easiest.. as for belly splits.. probably green then but I don't know I haven't belly split mine ... gut

[Allyn T]

I just did 3 belly splits, dry wood, split way easier than when green.

[Hamish]

Hawky , I would heat treat it, oil quench. Temper to brown/purple.

I would make the bevel pretty fat, nothing like a knife edge. I have 2 froes. 1/2" thick spine, which starts to taper, then a secondary bevel for about 3/4" from the edge. Angle is 45 degrees at the secondary bevel. I think that's a bit steep, makes it harder to start the split in dry wood.

The second froe is about 1/4" thick, straight bar, 3/4"  wide bevel away from the edge. Its 40 degrees. Lie Neilsen makes another froe, they say their model has a 30 degree bevel, which sounds a bit too acute to be robust. I haven't used one so I can't be sure.

The bevel on both of my froes is convex, like an apple seed.