Acer pseudoplatanus - 48# @ 27" - 64"ntn

[diliviu]

Fine tillering and amazing bow overall.

[backtowood B2W]

Hey!
Simk, if you wanna trade some osage, I have more from that stuff  
Really great bow and tiller. You are a true master of heat treatment! Too much heat to that wood and it likes to chrysal. At least that happened to me. But she is still alive, I gave this bow to a friend and he is still happy with her.
The handle stitching doesn't really looks like an upsala but the nock wrap a little bit
I will have to look in the barn tomorrw
PS: sorry for being so lazy lately , will try to post one of my new lady's soon....

[bownarra]

Strange I heat treat mine until it is almost black with no problems.

[simk]

thanx Stuckinthemud, George, Kidder, WillB, bradsmith, bambule(we need pics!), Hawkdancer, M2A, Sagebrush, bownarra, bjrogg, diliviu and b2w.
glad I was finally able to lure you out from behind that stove b2w  I do usually heat treat to avoid chrysals, maybe you didn't hard enough. To avoid just drying out the wood and a better heat transfer I do apply some linseed oil.
Be careful no to get lost in that barn then 
I have no doubt you have some nice bows there....looking forward. cheers

[bambule]

Too much heat to that wood and it likes to chrysal. At least that happened to me.

That happens to me once too in the past (10 - 15 years)- I treated a bow of mountain maple and during the session the wood chrysals...
I didn‘t take pictures of my bows so I can‘t show the evidence...

[lonbow]

Very nice bow! I bet it shoots really fast!

[simk]

thanx lonbow  I got over 190fps shooting 8gpp. I will test the finished bow again then, also curious about the 10gpp standard...

that now is really intersting bambule (and b2w). how do those chrysals lookalike? could it be drying checks from the strong heat somehow? are they cross/diagonal or along the grain? Did you temper dry or with some oil? I found this wood takes quite a long time to actually take the heat and get the typical brown color - I therefore tempered not very aggressive but longer than e.g. ash or hazel. thanx
 

[lonbow]

Those are really nice numbers
(and the draw length is 1" shorter than the standard) Awesome!

[simk]

yes, its mighty fine. but it was on a 28" draw - and the bow didn't like that - I did another heat treating then to hide again the set...also the drawweight has gone up some. since then I only draw 27". when testing bows, chrono or flight, I often tend to overstress them,...its usually not a good idea 
its even documented...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IG-cYhTVwMo

[Flntknp17]

Very well done!  I really like the shape.  I have been making my nocks similar to that on the last 6 or 7 bows and I really like the idea so far.  Going to keep doing it.  I also love a good piece of maple. 

Matt

[bambule]

that now is really intersting bambule (and b2w). how do those chrysals lookalike? could it be drying checks from the strong heat somehow? are they cross/diagonal or along the grain? Did you temper dry or with some oil? I found this wood takes quite a long time to actually take the heat and get the typical brown color - I therefore tempered not very aggressive but longer than e.g. ash or hazel. thanx
 

To be honest, I really can‘t remember. It’s more than 10 years ago... but I know that I didn't use oil or so in the beginning of heat treating my bows. I temper my bows 4-5 inches away from the bow for a long time to get the heat deep in the wood - I don‘t want a dark color but a hard limb - it took me about 1,5 hours to temper each limb.

Greetz
Cord

[backtowood B2W]

I found this pics of the bow which chrysaled after heat treat. Don't wanna blame this wood (mountain maple) for this result - maybe it was just me who messed this up . 3years ago I did this build so probably my tillering wasn't so skilled at that time...
don't remember if I used oil

[simk]

thanx Cord, always interesting to hear about how others doing it  I do my heat treating mostly with the quartz radiator, usually 10-15 minutes per session and limb, always checking temps with my fingers (on the back) and an ir-thermometer. Additionally using the heat gun for some spots then... usually reflexing the limb just by attaching e weight on the tip...

thanks b2w! interesting! if these occured while heat treating not while bending the bow: this to me almost looks like tension cracks caused by hard heat treating a very light and spongy wood while reflexing it. Did you reflex it while heat treating?

[BoltBows]

Looks great! I really like the tips with the wrappings. well done man

Jaap

[bambule]

The last years I was going for whole bow tempering over a charcoal fire for about 2 hours.
The results are much more better as with a heatgun. The stave holds most of the reflex and I think, the whole process is more evenly than the heatgun-work. Just take a look that I don‘t burn the wood...
Works fine for me.

Greetz
Cord