never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before

[Tradslinger]

This is a 66" roughed out Osage that has been previously reflexed on the tips but is now ready to be floor tillered. It is 1/2" at the tips, 2" wide at the fadeouts. The reflex is the last 8" or so and is about 2" or more in height. I plan to add antler overlays. I just have never tillered anything with a reflex much less reflexed tips. I was told to leave the tips a little thicker. any tricks to do with the long string? I figure that a short long string that isn't tight might be easier to manage. I still haven't cut the nocks yet, was going to do the overlays first.

[scp]

"Reflex" usually refers to the side profile of the working limbs. You are talking about the recurve or recurved tips. 8" is a little long for a static recurve. You need to decide whether you want it to be a static or working one. I basically treat stiff tips as non-working parts of the limbs like fades. As for working recurve tips, I guess you can simply consider them as the more reflexed parts of the working limbs. I just look for nice even curves of all working parts.

[Kidder]

The biggest struggle that I've found working with bows like that is that they have a tendency to want to flip upside down in the tillering rack if not secured (until they are braced). I usually use a leather sling so I can better judge how even the limbs move, but with a bow like that I've found I have to use some sort of cradle that prevents the bow from turning over.

[Tradslinger]

I definitely can see how and why the bow might flp over or try to. to make it a static tip, it needs to be thicker at the tip area, correct? Still waiting on my Trad bow builders bible to get in. I figure the only safe wat to string it later is using a stringer. I do appreciate any and all help. a  in the works, Jerry 

[bownarra]

You will be able to stirng it with the push/pull method.
Tight long string on all bows in my opinion.
You can clamp the handle in the vice and pull the limbs end to check floortiller/vicetiller
The trick is to get these sort of bows nice and 'limber' or close to final thickness before fighting them too much early on....but that takes experience to eyeball tapers/thickness etc...or luck.
Reflexed bows of any sort will feel heavier than they actually are once strung.

[Tradslinger]

thanks, the vice thing may be a life saver. I figured that the long string needed to be tight just to keep it on ong enough to do anything.  Any advice is better than none at all. I like knowing of various options to work with. so it would best to have a very good floor tiller, meaning a decent bend closer towards a short string than maybe a straighter limb tip

[scp]

Do not pull the bow more than your desired draw weight. Do exercise the bow after any removal of wood. Highly reflexed bows can lose weight suddenly.

[Tradslinger]

Do not pull the bow more than your desired draw weight. Do exercise the bow after any removal of wood. Highly reflexed bows can lose weight suddenly.

oh that part I understand no problem