Author Topic: Juniper.  (Read 1268 times)

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Offline ssrhythm

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Juniper.
« on: December 07, 2020, 01:52:55 pm »
Ok, I cut down a 4" to 5"  diameter Juniper here in Wyoming last year...plenty long.  It, like any juniper I've ever seen in the wild, had a bunch of small limbs growing from all sides.  I cut them all off, and I threw the log in the garage and basically forgot about it.  All I think know about Juniper is that it is great in compression and not so great in tension.  I've only made a handfull of bows, and they have all been osage flat bows based off of what Clay Hayes does with his designs.  So...I have plenty of sinew, and I plan on sinew backing the bow I make from this Juniper.  That said, how should I proceed?

My thoughts are to debark and attempt to chase a growth ring the best I can, though I fear that the knots where the branches were will make that next to impossible.  The back will have to be sapwood, as about half the diameter of the tree is sapwood...can you even chase a sapwood ring?  Regardless, I figure the strongest design would consist of as much of an unviolated ring as possible.  This will result in a fairly highly crowned back.  So...I'm thinking leave it crowned and as wide as possible.  If I do that...should I then attempt a hollow limb design to minimize set?  I'm confused about this...I think I understand that the hollow limb design will allow the entire belly to resist compression forces equally on a crowned stave, and if I made a flat belly design with the crowned back, that would concentrate the compression forces (to the edges?) and make it more likely that the areas receiving those forces would suffer cell damage and thus take set.  Please correct me or fill in where I am wrong.  So, what type of belly should I go for?  Hollow or flat?

I know that I could decrown it and make a ELB design, but I'd really like to try to make a shorter, flatter, recurve out of this piece of wood...that may be asking too much of it, but I'd like to try.  What say ye all?

Offline ssrhythm

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Re: Juniper.
« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2020, 03:44:36 pm »
Heck...If I need to rethink the whole shebang and do something completely different, let me know.  I’m a newbie Boyer period...I’ve never so much as shaved the bark of anything other than Osage.  There’s a lot of resources for a lot of bowwood...not so much with juniper.

Offline bjrogg

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Re: Juniper.
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2020, 05:42:28 pm »
I’ve never tried a juniper. Only place I have used it on a bow was building up a handle.

From what I have heard. She’s like that really pretty, fast girl that smells so good. The ones my mom told me to watch out for.

She can break your heart in a flash. With a very explosive fracture. If you want to run around with her, be prepared for heartbreak.

Honestly I would like to try. But I haven’t. It’s has very beautiful heartwood. It smells fantastic. There have been a few posted here. Some with broken limbs sticking out of the ceilings. From what I have heard sinew and sapwood is the best combination.

When it goes it goes very violently.

I would save it for when you have more experience or use it for something else. I have a very small piece of a board. I use it for building up handles. It is kinda special for me.

Bjrogg
A hot cup of coffee and a beautiful sunrise

Offline bradsmith2010

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Re: Juniper.
« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2020, 05:50:48 pm »
really  hard to tell without seeing alot of pics,, I blew one up a few weeks ago, I would suggest a bit longer or wider than you think and dont get carried away with too much draw length,,

Offline ssrhythm

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Re: Juniper.
« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2020, 07:00:50 pm »
Well, I would wait for more experience, but I don't function that way...I'm a go-for-it and learn from my mistakes kinda guy.  That said, I don't want to be blinded or injured otherwise.  Do they blow so dang bad that sinew won't hold it together and prevent injury?  Y'all have me worried now, but I'm going to build it anyway!  So I'm going to overbuild the snot out of this thing.  I guess I'll make it 70" for a 28" DL, keep it wide the entire length of the working limb and transition carefully into narrow but static tips...maybe a tad bit flipped...and make it hollow limbed backed with plenty of sinew.  If I can manage to get my garage straightened up and cleaned up, I'll start shaving and posting pics.  Thanks for the tips and replys.

Offline Hawkdancer

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Re: Juniper.
« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2020, 12:22:21 am »
You need to hope Chuck Loeffler and Limbit weigh in on this!  They have done well with juniper.  If nothing else, your shop will smell nice :BB (lol)!
Hawkdancer
Life is far too serious to be taken that way!
Jerry

Offline High-Desert

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Re: Juniper.
« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2020, 12:33:11 am »
I’ve only made 1 1/2 juniper bows. The second is in the vise waiting to be tiller. The limb did crack down the center. It was strung backwards about 9”. The first one developed a crack down the center of the limb after sinewing, and then the sides cracked severally, which I was told was catastrophic. I had nothing to loose so I rawhide backed the back and sides. Never had an issue, still shoots today, and that was 3 years ago. The second one I did a completely lenticular shape to it so there are no sides.
I wouldn’t worry about following a ring, the knot holes, I just filled with balled up sinew and Ayers over them. Not sure if that’s the right think to do, but it worked. I look forward to seeing your go at juniper.
Eric

Offline loefflerchuck

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Re: Juniper.
« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2020, 11:09:09 am »
Usually the uphill side of a trunk or limb has less branches. If the bark peels straight the grain is straight. It splits easy with a axe and hammer. Make sure it splits straight with no/little twist. Remove the bark and underbark and use the unbroken ring of sapwood underneath for the surface to back with sinew. If you get the wood frame floor tillered to a light weight the sinew will draw the bow into a reflex and add 15-20# of draw weight.