Knot reduction

[Kidder]

Working on my first Osage stave (I wish someone on here would have told me how awesome Osage was to work with sooner...but I digress). I’ve chased a ring to a clean back. There’s one large knot that I’ve left about 1/4 inch proud and slightly wider at that location. It’s located right at the junction of the lower limb and the fade as I have the bow laid out. Can I reduce it further or is this about as low as I should go? Is there any other treatment I am missing? Thanks!

[bownarra]

Let the wood guide you. As long as you are following one ring the hieght of the knot above the rest of the beack doesn't matter. As for width the fibers will 'swell' around that knot and you should follow them.
As you start tillering and work the bow down you will get a better idea of how to progress.
A photo looking straight at the back would be helpful.

[Pat B]

I agree with bownarra but I'd like to add...from your pic it looks like you may have violated that top ring at the top of the knot. That back ring should go up on the knot and down around the branch within the knot. If that is the case you may be OK being that you won't get much bending at that portion of the limb, but for future reference never cut through that back ring on knots or pins. Those violations can easily lift a splinter if the area works with the limb. I leave the knots and pins with an "island" of the ring above around it until after the back is clean then go to each knot or pin with a scraper or knife and working from the crown of the knot or pin down towards the limb all around the knot or pin. This will help you get a clean, unviolated ring over the knots and pins.
 We have been telling you how great osage is as a bow wood, ie. "OSAGE IS KING"!...it's not just another pretty face.   

[Kidder]

I agree with bownarra but I'd like to add...from your pic it looks like you may have violated that top ring at the top of the knot. That back ring should go up on the knot and down around the branch within the knot. If that is the case you may be OK being that you won't get much bending at that portion of the limb, but for future reference never cut through that back ring on knots or pins. Those violations can easily lift a splinter if the area works with the limb.

That’s kind of what I was concerned with after I did it. But how does one proceed when they’ve got an inch of branch sticking out?
It’s a long but very narrow stave (77 inches but I can only get an 1.25 wide bow out of it). Should I move my handle location so the know is more in the handle?

[Piddler]

Kidder,
I had the same dilemma a while back. I ended up going around the knot and removing it completely. I made that section part of the arrow pass so it ended up more center shot. Turned out pretty good in my opinion. A lot does depend on which way the knot goes toward the belly. Be sure to follow the grain around the knot. Sounds like the stave is long enough to accomplish this easily. Don't know what poundage you are after but 1 1/4" should be wide enough for a pretty strong bow.
Piddler

[Pat B]

A knot sticking 1" above the back won't hurt anything. Consider it character.      1.25" wide is plenty for an osage bow. With 77" of length you should be able to move the knot into the handle area as close as it is to the fade. With a 28" draw a 66" to 68", 1.25" wide stave will make bow up to 65# or more if that is what you want.

[Kidder]

That all makes sense. I’ll move the knot to the top of the fade just below the grip, learn from it, and get working!

[Piddler]

Should be able to do something like this.Would have used knot as arrow rest but it was not hard enough.
Piddler

[Piddler]

The photo is way distorted. It's not so short like that. When downloaded it looks more normal at least on this computer.

[Kidder]

If I left the knot where it was should I put a rawhide or sinew patch over it to reinforce that area?

[Bob Barnes]

if you 'right click' the mouse and then click on 'view image'...it shows your picture the way it should...  I like the way the arrow pass worked out 

[Pat B]

I'd super glue the top of the knot and leave that area a little stiff. Near the fade will be a bit stiffer anyway.

[Kidder]

I'd super glue the top of the knot and leave that area a little stiff. Near the fade will be a bit stiffer anyway.

Thanks Pat!

[Eric Krewson]

I wouldn't violate the grain over a cluster of pins but it is about impossible to follow the grain over a knot of that size. It has been my experience that the top of the knot will have small cracks 100% of the time but superglue should stop them. I don't think I ever had the cracks move down into the limb,