Band Saw and Stave questions

[Piddler]

I have a couple questions or three.
On the subject of band saws are they worth it. Local wood shop has a Rikon 10-326 about $100 off normal price. I've never used one but I believe they can be useful for lots more than just working on bows. Trying to talk myself into spending the cash and have been for a while.
Staves: I have a few staves that I believe I can get three bows out of each. Question is would you try and split them or use a band saw. They are pretty darn straight and from a big tree.
Question three: These staves were cut in early June so about 6 months since cut. Don't plan on working them for a long time yet  but I believe if they were in smaller they would dry a bit better. Just don't want them to start twisting.
Thanks,
Piddler

[bradsmith2010]

I love having a band saw,, and think it is a good investment,,I dont think you will ever regret having one,,, some staves will split,, but some need to cut to get the most bows out of it,,

[Dances with squirrels]

I agree with Brad. My bandsaw was the first big power tool I got for the shop, and it would be the last one I'd get rid of.

I'm not familiar with the saw you mentioned, but for stave work, I wouldn't want anything smaller than I have. Mine is a 14" craftsman with a 1 1/2 hp motor. I use 3/4" 4 tpi blades for stave work.

[monoloco]

I love having a band saw,, and think it is a good investment,,I dont think you will ever regret having one,,, some staves will split,, but some need to cut to get the most bows out of it,,

Noob question here:  I was splitting some half-limb lengths of OO today and the grain ran out - I mean way out - resulting in only one usable stave.  I have a bandsaw but thought that I should 'let the wood inform the bow'.  I.e. in order to maintain grain running along centerline of bow, it should be split out and not sawn. 

How/when do you use a bandaw for making staves - w/out violating the longitudinal grain?

TIA
a

[bradsmith2010]

thats a judment call, if I have a stave thats just barely wide enough for two bows, I will cut it and not risk having the grain go where I dont want it to, but I am basically still following the grain,,but with a little more control,,

[Piddler]

Thanks fellas,
DWS It is a 14" with 1.75 hp motor. Has good reviews and good warranty.
Brad Smith 2010. I think these staves would split ok but I think it can be cut it and not worry about torn wood or grain especially on the belly splits.
Piddler

[Morgan]

Another vote for pro Bandsaw. I too don’t know anything about the saw you mentioned, I know a benchtop type will not be good enough. HP ratings can vary wildly between manufacturers especially cheap Asian motors, you will not be disappointed with a 1.5+ hp motor, that said a true 3/4 hp motor is absolutely serviceable although you have to feed it slow. Even slow feeding a bandsaw is many many times faster than a hatchet, drawknife, and rasp. I wouldn’t buy one less than 12 or 14”. Mine is a 14” delta and I’m very happy with it.

[bassman]

I have a 600 dollar Porter Cable that I was never happy with, because I was using Bosch blades, and could not find them wide enough. I was doing it all by hand for a long time.  I have Auther Itis pretty bad,and wanted to use my band saw again so it was easier on my body. I found a 4 tooth pi  3/4 inch blade that was rated the best of the best for 40 bucks. I cut hard wood like it is butter now. Buy the best blade you can afford. It will save you a lot of head aches when using a band saw.

[bradsmith2010]

yes what he said about the blade

[Allyn T]

Noob question here:  I was splitting some half-limb lengths of OO today and the grain ran out - I mean way out - resulting in only one usable stave. 


TIA
a

When. Splitting wood you should try for same mass, that helps prevent runoffs.

[Selfbowman]

I have one and use it a lot. You still have to follow the grain. Let me say this to ya It’s one thing to follow the grain and it’s another to straighten it. Both take time and patience. I’m one of the weird guys that like to get it as straight as possible. I think it’s worth the time on the heat bench. Arvin

[Morgan]

One other thing, I use the saw for rough out and to get an extra stave out of a split that may not split clean enough to split one out. I don’t think I would ever trust myself to read the grain to break a log down into staves, however it’s pretty easy to se what’s going on with the grain of a quarter split. Make sure when you’re roughing out you are well balanced and stay outside your lines, you can ruin a stave in a blink.

[Jim Davis]

I have three band saws in working condition and one in therapy. They are all great old American cast Iron and steel machines. I got them all used and have much less money in all of them than you would spend on the Rycon sale item.

The only parts that might wear out on these American made saws are the bearings after 50 or 60 years--and then replacements are available.

New saws are mostly aluminum and plastic, cleverly arranged piles of junk.

Watch craigslist for a while and learn to put a saw back in good condition. It's a skill like learning to make a bow.

[monoloco]

The really old machines are works of art.  But for a while, American made stuff went downhill.  The last bandsaw I bought was back in mid-seventies when I was making/repairing guitars - a Rockwell 14".  It was *crap* compared to saws I've seen recently.  It took a lot of work to balance the wheels, round the rubber 'tires', and generally get it useable.  That said, it was beefy and basic, so once I got it 'right', with the height extension, I was able to resaw nearly foot deep (tall) stock into 1/8" thick  material for guitar backs.

Two things I learned over the years - buy high quality blades purpose made for ripping (assuming you ARE ripping and not doing scrollwork) and if it's an older saw, look into updated blade guides.  I use something IIRC called 'cool blocks' which are graphite impregnated composite material.

Older machines had two distinct things going for them:  1) Mass - a heavy machine is more stable, runs smoother, etc.  2) a heavy motor - I can't back this up with data/specs, but I've owned old machines with motors rated 1hp, that were 2x heavier than 'modern' motors.  One old Delta table saw I had, ran like the proverbial swiss watch and had *unbelievable* power - once the motor spooled up it was like a freight train.  Nameplate said 1hp but jimminy... I could barely lift the thing.  I suspect more copper windings etc.?

[Eric Krewson]

I have had 3 bandsaws;

An 12" American made craftsman with a 1/2 hp motor that was a great saw and would cut with the best of them if you had a sharp 1/2" blade on it. These can still be had on Craigslist or the Marketplace for around $100.

Next was a Rigid that was so bad that the factory warranty repair facility couldn't make it run properly, absolute junk.

Finally I dropped the coin on a good Griz 20 years ago, I won't ever need to buy another saw. This saw will get out of adjustment occasionally and need a tune up but overall it is a great workhorse.