Author Topic: Processing and applying Elk Sinew  (Read 2004 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline flatnickel

  • Member
  • Posts: 3
Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« on: September 17, 2020, 07:44:34 am »
hello I am new to the Forum have been looking for a while. I've made a few bows myself after I took Weylin's class. I recently harvested a bull elk and pulled the tendons out of his legs. I have them drying my question is how long do they need to dry in order to start the next process. Also does anyone have any tips on it as well as how to apply it. Thank you in advance.

Offline PatM

  • Member
  • Posts: 6,737
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2020, 07:56:07 am »
Lay them out in a cool dry area until they turn amber right through.  Then you can pound them or soak them and  strip them down into strands.  Soaking is easier but some people insist that pounding them works better.  Your choice.

 Then do this:  https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,43246.15.html

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2020, 07:57:06 am »
They will turn "clear" when they are dry. Any damp spots will be whiteish. The conventional method was to dry them completely, then pound and shred them. There was a thread a while back about shredding them when they are damp. People found that they shredded easier. Dry them completely for storage where your dog can't reach them. Dogs will hunt them down so be diligent about this.

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,617
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2020, 08:33:56 am »
Welcome to PA, flatnickle.  :OK
In relatively dry conditions it only takes a few fays for sinews to dry. When the sinew bundles become amber and translucent they can be pounded and pulled apart into strands. I believe you can do it green also but I haven't tried that yet.
 I prefer to use hide glue for applying sinew to a bow.  After the sinew is separated I wash it in warm water with detergent(Dawn for me) and rinse well and separate into workable bundles and place them conveniently aside. I also scrub the bow's back with Dawn and rinse with boiling water. This not only removes and wood oils but also finger prints but sets up the wood and sinew for accepting the moisture so the warm glue will adhere to the wood and saturate the sinew. Be sure to squeegee out the excess glue with your fingers before laying it down. You don't want too much glue. Also have a bowl of warm water and towels handy to remove glue from your fingers as you work. Have everything ready and close at hand so the process goes smoothly. I use a double boiler(old crock pot, for keeping the sinew warm while working with it. I like to back string the bow some, maybe a few inches and clamped so I can work with everything easily. I first add a few sizing coats of warm glue letting each gel well before adding the next. Never add too much glue at one time.  Starting at the handle I lay the sinew down the center of the limb going down both limbs. Be sure to cross the handle with the sinew backing. Then I work another layer along both sides the first and continue on until the limbs are covered. No need to add sinew to the last 6" or so of the limb tips. They are nonworking and the sinew isn't necessary there and will just add excess physical weight. Some folks go over the tips and then wrap them. I haven't found that necessary.
 After a few days the sinew will dry enough for you to see how well the coverage is. At this point I fill in the gap with more sinew and let that dry for a day or 2 and check the coverage again. I do wrap the wet sinew backed bow with strips of old bed sheets or gauze for an hour or two after applying to help smooth the sinew out but remove it before it dries. After everything is done I let the sinewed bow dry leaving it in reflex as it dries. When the string gets slack, as it will I tighten it a bit and let it dry more. I let it dry for a month before straining the bow any. It will continue to dry and cure for quite a while after that but I think it is safe to go on in the process, tillering, etc. once you get to this point.
 This is the way I do it. Others will have similar but different processes.
Good luck
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Hawkdancer

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,039
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #4 on: September 17, 2020, 10:46:14 am »
Welcome to PA, Flatnickle!  There is a wealth of knowledge available from the members here.  You can learn something new(old) every day.  Remember, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask!  Of course, some questions are smarter than others (lol) (-P >:D!  We like pictures, and our emojis, too
Hawkdancer
Life is far too serious to be taken that way!
Jerry

Offline bradsmith2010

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,187
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2020, 11:27:56 am »
best to you and your sinew project,, lots of knowledge here,

Offline hoosierf

  • Member
  • Posts: 492
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2020, 09:33:23 am »
Once they are separated wash them thoroughly in warm water and dish soap. Squeaky clean. The oils prevent adhesion of your glue.

Offline flatnickel

  • Member
  • Posts: 3
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2020, 10:52:50 am »
Thanks for all the comments. At what stage of tiller do I begin to apply the sinew. Also is it ok to leave the sinew exposed or is that a bad idea. I'm only backing it to use the sinew out of an elk my buddy killed for him. Also when it dries does it add some reflex to the bow?

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,617
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2020, 12:48:35 pm »
Start adding the sinew anywhere between about half tiller to full tiller. You can leave the sinew exposed if you seal it well but you are better off covering it with something like rawhide or snake skins to protect it. Sinew is very hygroscopic, meaning it takes on moisture from the atmosphere. With enough sinew it will draw the bow into reflex as it dries.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline PatM

  • Member
  • Posts: 6,737
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2020, 01:11:58 pm »
I don't do any proper bending of the bow before sinewing.  I  only bend it backwards.

Offline flatnickel

  • Member
  • Posts: 3
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #10 on: October 08, 2020, 11:07:03 am »
If i am going to be adding recurves to the ends do I go all the way to the end with the sinew or stop before the bend. I have processed some of it lots of work and blisters!!!!!!

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,617
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #11 on: October 08, 2020, 12:08:16 pm »
Normally folks make static recurves to add sinew to and on a static recurve it is not necessary to sinew over the curves. On the static recurves I've made I stopped before the curves and added a sinew wrap at that point. I don't know if that is necessary but I did it just in case.  If you make a working recurve then you should add sinew to the curves however getting sinew to stay attached to an inside curve can be problematic.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline willie

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,231
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2020, 02:20:42 pm »
Quote
I believe you can do it green also but I haven't tried that yet.

has anyone experience with working green sinew? seems like keeping them in the freezer until needed would be practical.

gutpile

  • Guest
Re: Processing and applying Elk Sinew
« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2020, 02:31:16 pm »
make sure you have plenty shredded before starting sinew job..pain in butt to start shredding sinew during application.. also I like to keep sinew in different length piles after shredding.. some will be 3 inches 4 or 5 whatever bundle those together .. makes job easier and better looking too.. I stagger my sinew like bricks also..apply at least two layers..  a lil trick I use also is I'll hang a weight on handle with bow tips in between two chairs to help induce reflex while drying too.. works like a charm...25 lb is plenty...let it completely dry.. depends on where you are located.. down South it can be 6 months..it take at least a single layer to my tips on recurves ..probably not necessary cause they are static but it isn't going to hurt anything  IMO,, I also till my bow to about 6 to 8 inches of draw left to go.. so on a 28" draw I'll till it to 20 or 22 before I apply sinew too... gut...
« Last Edit: October 08, 2020, 02:35:08 pm by gutpile »