Measuring on the tree

[DC]

I'm trying to do all this measuring and I just want to make sure I'm not screwing up. This bow has a 6" BH measured from the back. There is a tape measure that starts from the back of the bow(1 1/2" handle). The peg board is adjusted so that the pulley rests on the pin at BH. One inch between holes on the peg board. The scale has a strain gauge so I don't have to compensate for spring stretch. Pictures don't show anything but the arrangement of stuff. Does that all look OK so far?

PS the string looks like it's at 6 1/16" but that's just camera angle Who's anal

[avcase]

It looks good to me. The only thing to do consider doing different is to lift the tape measure another 1/4” beyond the bow back. That’s me being pretty anal, but then you’d be using the AMO Standard.

Aan

[DC]

Thanks Alan. There is a piece of wood in there to curve the saddle, it's about a half inch thick, I can shave some of that off. That 1/4" will drop the weight around a half pound. It will be interesting to see how that rumbles through the whole process. 

[DC]

Now that I'm looking at it, if I lift the tape 1/4" then my handle should be made to AMA thickness or 1 3/4" thick so I would have to put a shim in there and that would bring everything back to where it is now.

[bentstick54]

Set up looks good to me. I’m a rookie, but on my selfbows I measure to the back of the bow and don’t worry about AMO standard.

[DC]

I'm not terribly worried about AMO either but if I can match it with minimum work I might as well do it. If nothing else it puts your results in a language that most can understand.

[Dances with squirrels]

Looks ok, except I pull mine from where the middle finger of my string hand will be.

[DC]

I understand the logic in that and I've watched many(if not  all) of Dels videos but for the life of me I can't seem to see the bend properly unless I start out with the bow level. The saddle on my tree is a little deceiving in the there is an eccentric seat. The highest part is almost over to the right hand side of the angle iron. It seems to work for me but I do have my doubts sometimes.

[Dances with squirrels]

I like you DC. You're inquisitive, always learning and trying better ways to do stuff. I couldn't tell you how many times I've modified my tiller tree.

My tree is set up to either hold the bow level, or to allow it to tip. Limb balance can be achieved either way.

I made my tree cradle so that as-is, it supports the handle near the outer margins, and this is how I do most of my work on the tree. Bows can be dynamically balanced quite well that way by drawing the string where the middle finger will be.

But I also made inserts of various shapes that drop down into the cradle. They sit solid and don't move, but can allow the bow to tilt. One is flat, one's a symmetrical arch, and one looks asymmetrical very much like yours that can be flipped either way. I also have a short piece of a halfround file that I can use on the flat insert to move the bow hand pivot/fulcrum anywhere I want.... either to place it exactly where I want and then effect balance at that point through tillering, or to move left or right until I find out exactly where a bow's balance point currently is.