Dualling Chonos

[willie]

My arrows go about 8-12 inches above the windows. I use a rolling block release. I can't see it paradoxing "up and down". If anything it should sort of duplicate fingers. I kind of think that Blacky's explanation depends on how far away from the bow that the chono's are.

you may well have addressed the concerns mentioned by Blacky in his conversation with Markus.

It is my understanding an arrow paradoxing is  buckling under acceleration. bucking is hard to predict as it occurs suddenly and small factors can start it going and once it starts off in a particular direction.

finger flip is the biggie and your rolling block to a smaller degree when considering the release.
sideloads on the arrow as it is accelerating comes into play also.
your carbons are most likely much more consistent than a wood arrow, but discrepancies in stiffness as far as which way is the "soft" side and off center loadings, ie nocks out of alignment may be factors also.

which factor causes what when is hard to figure, but most likely once an arrow begins to buckle, that will be which way it paradoxes.

hope you don't think I am trying to doubt your accomplishment,  just thinking out loud to help get both machines reading the best they can.

[Markus]

Hello again You say the second speed tester is 6 inches past the first one??
Blackie and the late Norbert Mullaney had the first sensor of the closest chrono 3 feet downrange from the back of the handle and the next  Chrono about three-four feet after that. After finding that out I do the same. Sometimes I have the first one 4 feet downrange.
One advantage of having the bow vertical is that it is not that space consuming.
I bought indoor lights for my two ProCronos. In the instructions they say if testing outdoors do not test in sunlight, but on an overcast day. Do not stand under a tree or roof, the sensors need a clear view of the sky.
Do you have a picture of your shooting machine and chronos. I tried to post a pic of mine, but the attachments function do not work.

[DC]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,68490.0.html

The second chrono sits just behind this one.  I'm too cheap to buy something I can make so my lights are 3 led bulbs, 6.5 watts I think, with ice cream buckets for diffusers. Spreading the chonos out to 4' would mean making another new light string.

[Markus]

Interesting shooting machine. I understand now why you can’t move it outside.

[willie]

are those bulbs true older style incandescents or the newer led look a likes?

bulb output varies on ac. the older filament bulbs much less than the florescent or leds that actually can switch off and on 60 times a second, too fast to see with the human eye for most folks.

[DC]

I was concerned about that so I tested the same bow before and after changing to the LED's and the speed was about the same. I think I trust the incandescents more. I'll test it again once I can get a little more consistency. I'm busier than a one armed paper hanger with hives and I'm losing track of what I'm doing.

[DC]

I just tested the two different light and the results are the same. No discernable difference between them.

[Markus]

My simple shooting machine

[Markus]

[DC]

What do you have for a triggering mechanism? Picture please

[Markus]

https://www.wish.com/product/591d18662771af27807ddbb2?from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=NO&_force_currency_code=NOK&pid=googleadwords_int&c=%7BcampaignId%7D&ad_cid=591d18662771af27807ddbb2&ad_cc=NO&ad_lang=EN&ad_curr=NOK&ad_price=229.00&campaign_id=9527731173&gclid=CjwKCAjwx9_4BRAHEiwApAt0zvEPR8v0LItt4WMwcosx7kQmrtrGOX66GBdeGN_X4HHRpmaIig6CfxoCAVMQAvD_BwE&hide_login_modal=true&share=mobileweb
I use a releaser, used by the compound guys.
I fasten the bow with a bicycle inner tire.
The 2x4 with the small boat winch is just fastened to the stand with a couple of solid screws so it is easy to take apart and do not take up any space when not in use.

[DC]

https://www.wish.com/product/591d18662771af27807ddbb2?from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=NO&_force_currency_code=NOK&pid=googleadwords_int&c=%7BcampaignId%7D&ad_cid=591d18662771af27807ddbb2&ad_cc=NO&ad_lang=EN&ad_curr=NOK&ad_price=229.00&campaign_id=9527731173&gclid=CjwKCAjwx9_4BRAHEiwApAt0zvEPR8v0LItt4WMwcosx7kQmrtrGOX66GBdeGN_X4HHRpmaIig6CfxoCAVMQAvD_BwE&hide_login_modal=true&share=mobileweb
I use a releaser, used by the compound guys.
I fasten the bow with a bicycle inner tire.
The 2x4 with the small boat winch is just fastened to the stand with a couple of solid screws so it is easy to take apart and do not take up any space when not in use.

Markus, have you had any trouble breaking arrows with thet solid target? Does that release work well with non centershot bows?

[Markus]

No broken arrows, that straw target is more than 10 years old so it is not so hard.
That release works well on all bows, I place the jaws just below arrow nock.

[DC]

Thanks, I think I'll work on my release mech today.

[willie]

From the shoooting machine "how to"

I'm very pleased with the trigger mech but I have some reservations about the saddle that the bow sits in. I found it hard to make a saddle that would hold the bow securely but also fit different handles. If you can come up with a really slick saddle I'd love to hear about it.

just rereading about your trigger and bow mount and had a question....

The release seems to be hard mounted to the rail and the bow is clamped down also.
How do you prevent the bow from torquing in the mount when you tighten the clamp, and if it were, wouldnt the release be putting a side pressure on the arrow and string at release maybe similar to flipping off the fingers?

you arrow breakage issues got me thinking somethings going on, maybe there