Dualling Chonos

[DC]

I'm not sure I'm following you but the clamp is lined with foam and it has a little wiggle room. Are you thinking I should have a roundish pin or something?

I'm thinking that if anything my arrows are stiff. They are leaving a mark on the bow and they are hitting about 4-6" high at 10 ft. I'm going to try to stop the rolling block from rolling flat(it spins free as is) so as to purposely give the arrow a little flip much like fingers would. When we spine arrows we put the heavy side to the bow so that when the arrow bends under acceleration it bends to the weak side(away from the bow). Carbons don't really have a weak side so what makes the arrow decide which way to bend? Maybe they need a little push. I'll let you know.
Oh, the release mech slides back and forth but I think you knew that.

[willie]

Are you thinking I should have a roundish pin or something?

not necessarily.

just thinking the clamp might be wanting to torque the bow grip somehow. when the bow is clamped in, does the string want to just barely touch the release or do you have to push it down or lift it to get it into the release fingers?

[DC]

It's strange you mentioned it because two of the bows I just played with just wouldn't sit right and the nock point wouldn't stay in place on the rolling block. The shape of the handle is the thing. Some handles are fine, some ain't. I'm modifying it now. I've been fighting this all morning. Moving the chronos hither and yon. And the lights. The best results are where I had it in the first place. Knowing that the 120volt LEDs don't work well should eliminate some problems. When I shot the air rifle through them they were within a couple of fps but arrows seem to be right a 6 fps difference. That seems to depend on the order the chronos are but the jury is still out on that. Get the saddle working better first.

[Markus]

You mention you would like to stop the rolling block from spinning freely. In medieval times the crossbows had the hole in the block and riser drilled slightly offset so the block(nut) stopped spinning on release. The nut usually had sinew threds through the holes to secure it in its socket

[DC]

I just put in another step for the trigger to catch on. It releases when the trigger is pulled but stops again after some rotation. I may put a spring in it to return it to the original spot. If I put a heavy return spring it may act even more like "fingers".
It occurred to me that I have fluorescent light in the shop. I'll try turning them off. It seems to be working now but I have to try a few different bows in it

[DC]

It all seems to work now. I tried three bows from my best down to my grandsons. Chronos were within 1fps of each other. I got rid of the 120v LEDs, I smoothed out the release fingers and stopped them from rolling free. I lowered the lights about six inches. Now i have to go scout out some spare incandescent bulbs. They are not easy to find any more. Now I can get back to making bows.

[Markus]

I’m glad you worked it out. I feel a little guilty for all this, I think I was the one who started it by asking if you used a shooting machine and two speedtesters.

[DC]

Guilty as charged .  When I feel like it there is still a question. When I put it the way it is now, Chrony first and Caldwell second I get virtually the same result from each. If I reverse them there is about a 6fps difference. Now the way I look at it unless there is a 3fps difference in the calibration of the chronos and coincidentally a 3fps difference in the actually arrow speed between the chronos this can't happen. That's too much of a coincidence for me. I tried more distance between them and it didn't help. But having them both pop up the same number is much more impressive and convincing so I'll leave it like this for a while. It's a PITA to get them unbolted and repositioned. Thanks for all the help.