Minimum Requirement for Deer?

[mmattockx]

This is more of a hypothetical question than a burning desire for me. I have never bow hunted anything, but have plenty of deer and moose hunting experience with a rifle. I like rifle hunting and don't have any reason to leave it, but adding bow hunting close to home is fairly appealing overall.

Last year we bought an acreage that is big enough to hunt on (9.5 acres) and we have lots of game in the area, with constant deer tracks, scat and scrapes (last fall) all over the property. We do not live there full time so our presence is light enough it doesn't seem to bother the deer much. There are lots of trees and it would be no problem to put up a ground blind close to one of the game trails through the trees.

My province has a minimum draw weight of 40lb for hunting big game, so that is the lower limit for draw weight and is no problem for me to shoot without struggling. I would probably end up closer to 45lb, but that isn't super critical at this point. Knowing that draw weight doesn't really translate well into actual performance, my question is what arrow weight and speed are enough to reliably take an animal inside 20yds? I can't see ever shooting farther than that with a bow on our property, so I am comfortable with that as a range limitation.


Thanks,
Mark

[Pat B]

A 500gr arrow with a 2 blade broadhead will do the trick.

[mmattockx]

A 500gr arrow with a 2 blade broadhead will do the trick.

How fast?


Mark

[Hawkdancer]

Not sure fast is an issue, where you hit is more important!  Might consider single bevel broad heads from all I see!  Lots of practice from all positions, angles, and be able to hit that "grapefruit"every time!  Actually the vital area doesn't change, the smaller zone tests your skill better, IMHO!  Try the Finnish Hunt test, 3 arrows in a 10 cm circle at 18 meters.  Like Hegde said earlier, where the first arrow hits is most important!  Pat B also had some good advice in another thread!  However, I am an instructor, not an experienced bow hunter!  Maybe, this year!
Hawkdancer

[mmattockx]

Not sure fast is an issue, where you hit is more important! 

There still will be a threshold that offers enough energy and penetration to reliably take an animal and I want to be well over it. I am not worried about the shooting part, I will practice until I am competent enough to make the shot or I won't hunt with a bow. I have shot enough deer to be familiar with how things tend to go in the field and buck fever isn't much of an issue at this point. I am just thinking about the equipment requirements here. The single bevel broadheads do sound like a great way to go.


Mark

[Pat B]

140 to 150 fps will do the job if you do your part. Hunting with a stick bow is nothing like hunting with a compound or rifle. Like Jerry said...putting the arrow in the kill zone on a relaxed animal is more important.

[DC]

You might find this thread interesting  https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,61736.0.html

I'm not a hunter but it interests me and I've gathered that an arrow has little or no shocking effect, unlike a .270. Be prepared to track your deer after you've shot it

[osage outlaw]

I've never measured how fast my bows are.  I've killed a few deer with selfbows and a sharp 2 blade broadhead.   If you put it through the heart/lungs they don't go far at all.   Usually less than 100 yards.   

[mmattockx]

140 to 150 fps will do the job if you do your part.

Ok, I will use that as the minimum.

I'm not a hunter but it interests me and I've gathered that an arrow has little or no shocking effect, unlike a .270. Be prepared to track your deer after you've shot it

Yep, archery kills bleed out while a rifle will sometimes stop them through hydrostatic shock. I've also had deer run 80+yds with no heart or lungs left after they were hit. A lot of it comes down to the nervous state the deer is in when it is shot.


Mark

[mmattockx]

Since this is going, I might as well ask what people use for a target butt to practice with broadheads? I use straw bales for the field and target tips but broadheads will just eat a bale in no time.


Mark

[Pat B]

I have a rubberized foam block I use for every thing. With some materials, like hay bales you have to push the arrow through with a hafted point or it will pull off.

[jimmi the sammi]

Buy  2 sheets of 2"  4'X8' building foam.  Cut them in half.  4'X4'.  Glue the 4 sheets together on the edges only.  It will be 4'X4' X 8" thick.  Do not use bead board, the white stuff.  It will shoot out fast.  Yellow or blue are the colors you want.  Broadheads and stone points will be stopped from any bow.  Easy to pull out by putting your knee against the target.  I've shot one for years without having to replace it.  Any arrow that is going to be shot at an animal needs to be proven accurate in a target.

[Hawkdancer]

Great information, Jimmi!  Guess what it going up on my new range after we get settled!.  Thanks,
Hawkdancer

[mmattockx]

Any arrow that is going to be shot at an animal needs to be proven accurate in a target.

I agree 100%. Thanks for the backstop recipe, I will try it out if/when I am shooting broadheads with hunting intent.


Mark