Hand tools for splicing

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

As in working on my first splice ik Thinking of the best hand tools for the job. Right now om sawing with a disposable metal Saw blade without the frame because that is torqed but would a figuren Saw be better? Or does that have too Manny chanches to wiggle? Anny other hand tool recomendations?

[Deerhunter21]

Japanese pull saw is what ive heard is awesome.

[PatM]

A good  hacksaw  actually works very well.   

[DC]

A good  hacksaw  actually works very well.   

+1 but I do think you need a frame. You could make one like this using a hacksaw blade.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4LohjmskEk

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

Well i "hafted" a broken blade to a exces piece of arrowshaft  and use It like a Japanse pulling Saw (attached It so It cuts when pulled instead of pushing)

[StickMark]

Cool.
I am fitting my first static recurve, low angle siyahs, to a 48" hickory board.
Tools: wood saw, rasp, two sharp knives, and sand paper, and a can of patience . I put the sand paper between the pieces and a split arrow shaft part, and the flat part ensures a flat fit.
One siyah is almost fitted. Slow mellow work, often holding it to sky to see the next place to sand.
 

[Hamish]

+1 for a Japanese pull saw. They aren't too expensive and can cut fine, deep kerfs needed for handle splices.

You mark out both sides of the splice, cut a pyramid from each side, before using the kerf cuts to guide the saw for the full thickness cut.

You could also use a tenon saw with a very deep blade. They are very expensive and the brass back will limit the depth of cut, but you can get ones that will cut a 4" long splice.

Other methods will work but they are slower because they will have teeth configurations that are better suited crosscutting, and sawing non wood materials.

[simson]

I do mine with a Kataba (Japanese pull saw),

I have some more sorts of Japanese saws (Dozuki for cutting cross the grain, .....)

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

Since i cant do everything when i want i must plan for what to do at wich time (im tired of the Neighbourhood with their crap talk and the way they look when im making a bow or Anny Wood working stuff.. they really think im crazy) i am working om multiple projects and think about new thinks wich got me a question. Do It matter wich end you join to each other? Do It have to be 2 Bottom ends of a stave splicing in the handle, or can It also be 1 top and 1 Bottom end, or 2 top ends spliced together in the handle?

[DC]

No. I've spliced them all different directions. Whatever suits the situation best. Sometimes you can get a knot on a better position by turning the billet around.

[Hawkdancer]

Ricardo,
Bow makers are relatively sane - it's the others who are crazy, or in Harry Potter's world, muggles!  I think we have all experienced that type of reaction from other non-bow makers or folk who just flat don't like anything!
Hawkdancer

[Jim Davis]

Hand saws come in two tooth shapes. Most of what can be bought today are made for cutting across the fibers, such  as cutting  to length.

Saws for cutting  with the grain have chisel-like teeth and are called rip saws. Hacksaw teeth have this  shape, but are not large enough for serious wood work.

Carpenters' handsaws were made as crosscut or rip saws. I don't know if Japanese saws are readily available in rip configuration.  If they are, in pulling them, they need to be at an angle to  the wood the makes the teeth enter the grain at  about 45 degrees and exit the  fibers at their ends. ////  ---->

Western style handsaws should enter the cut in the same orientation, but you will be pushing,  instead of pulling.

Crosscut saws do  not rip well at all.

I have 25 or more handsaws--crosscut,  rip, back saws, dovetail saws, compass saws and a keyhole saw. I  sharpen and set  them myself.

Without getting into the world of handsaws or spending much money, your best  bet is probably to get the coarsest hack saw  blade you can find and never use it for metal.