Wedge

[DC]

Here's both. The newest on the left. With the opposite curve in the stave it's hard to get them looking the same. I'll work on that.

[sleek]

That would make a fun looking bow

[DC]

The splice is done and curing.

[DC]

Here it is with a riser. It will be reduced a lot. The green tape is where the handle wrap will go. Sorry for the blurry pictures. It's early and I'm old

[Rākau]

can't see why it wouldn't work, seems like an elegant solution to me

[DC]

OK here's the results. Not so great. I think the first two are a result of the clamping gluing process. They appeared right away. Even though I clamped it so it wouldn't split, it still did. OS is incredibly stiff so there is a lot of strain right at the end of the wedge. Maybe sanding concave sides on the wedge to spread the strain wood help. I'm also thinking that putting the wedge closer to the back, making one side thinner would relieve some strain. A little heat might help also but trying to steam the whole thing was a failure. The second two pictures are the other limb and only one side has a small split. I think it happened after I started tillering but it's small so I may not have noticed it. I was a bit of a coward and didn't make it bend too much in the wedge area. Anyway they were there for 90% of the tillering and haven't moved since the beginning so I'll make a string and shoot it a bunch. I'm thinking that with a more flexible wood like Yew it may not happen.

[PatM]

I think you need to make them come to a feathered edge over a longer distance, just like a real power lam or the way the fades are done on a glass bow.

[DC]

I can't taper it out any thinner than the width of the saw kerf. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[Jim Davis]

Tip of the wedge needs to be in the center of the limb thickness--the neutral zone.

[DC]

Tip of the wedge needs to be in the center of the limb thickness--the neutral zone.

True

[mmattockx]

Tip of the wedge needs to be in the center of the limb thickness--the neutral zone.

The problem with that is the neutral point moves as the limbs are tillered. What was on the neutral axis at glue up is no longer there once wood has been removed from the belly during tillering.


Mark

[DC]

I did a lot of looking at other OS bows to get an idea of how thick the bow was going to be at the end of the wedge. I got it reasonably close that way. With a high tension strength wood like OS I think it would be safe to move it closer to the back but only trying would prove that.