Best Bandsaw Blades for IPE Boards

[Tommy D]

Can someone help me with a suggestion for a good blade for cutting Ipe? I have a 6TPI 10mm blade on a Hobby 10" bandsaw with a 375 W motor and struggle to cut ipe straight. Any magic suggestions out there? Thanks

[Del the cat]

That should be ok... is it a new blade?
I think the motor size is really the problem, but you've got to work with what you have.
A new (good quality) blade and take it slow, don't force it.
Del

[Hamish]

The best bandsaw blade would be carbide tipped, it won't get blunt quickly, like a regular steel blade. The downside is they cost a lot, and may not be available for a saw of your size.

The next best blade for ipe would be a bi metal blade(hss teeth brazed on).

Like Del said, with a 1/2 hp saw you are going to have to take your time cutting ipe no matter what blade you use. Just make sure the blade is sharp.

Before I had a powerful bandsaw, I remember cutting dense tropical woods, and all the smoke and black charred sawdust. The blade wasn't good for much else afterwards.

If you are ripping a large board into belly slats you would be better off using a tablesaw with a TCT rip blade. Even if the saw is underpowered you can do multiple cuts, increasing the depth of the blade.
Then you could save the bandsaw blade for cutting to outline, tapering the belly for rough floor tillering.

[Marc St Louis]

As was mentioned, sharp blade but also proper blade tension and adjustment.  I've only ever used steel blades and never had trouble as long as everything was properly adjusted plus one blade would last for many cuts before starting to get dull.  Take time and don't force the cut

[PatM]

I use a circular saw.

[maitus]

I use a circular saw.

I use table saw... "not dusty at all" isn't it ?

[PatM]

Not when you do it outside in a strong crosswind. lol

[Badger]

  I use those cheap metal blades about $10.00 each with no problem. Adjust your blade so that the bottom of your gullet runs down the middle of your wheel and it should cut straight. Adjust your blade guides so the rear guide only touches when you push your material into it. And the side guides have zero clearance but not dragging.

[Tommy D]

Thanks everyone - I will tweak with the settings and move the gullet to the center of the wheel as has been suggested by Marc. I spent a good half hour watching a guy on you tube suggest the same thing. Have also learnt that there are a lot of conflicting opinions on blade drift in a bandsaw!!  I built a couple of “home made” horizontal bandsaws for cutting lumber and when they worked they were great but have never quite found the art of tuning a band saw. It seems like black magic half the time - so the circular saw had definitely crossed my mind. I will preserver with the settings first! Have ordered a different blade to try too.

[willie]

not cutting straight can happen when the chips load up the teeth with too fine a tpi for the thickness you are cutting

how thick a board are you resawing with  6 tpi?

[Tommy D]

I cut out about an inch and a quarter board into a bow shape and then want to cut that to get 1 out of it!

[willie]

Having never cut ipe, I will defer to the more experienced as to whether that is your issue. are the sides of the cut, blade or table top  littered with chips or do you think they are clearing well. some woods get gunky especially if not well dried.

[Badger]

  A simple test on a bandsaw is to draw a straight line on your board and then feed it through for about 6" following the line. When you stop cutting be careful not to move the board you are cutting. If the blade is not on the right part of the wheel your board will not be straight, if it is straight you are good to go.

[bownarra]

A sharp one