Finally got off my arse...

[Pat B]

I spent 4 hours yesterday fitting this take down sleeve of a set of yew billets for Trapper Rob. I'm sure Rob is happy to see the progress on his bow after so many months. I haven't glued the sleeves yet but I will start shaping the limbs today.
I need glue for the sleeves. Is there an appropriate locally available glue for this application like 2ton epoxy or whatever. I'd hate to have to buy a quart of glue that I have no other use for. This is the first takedown sleeve I've installed so any other info will be helpful and appreciated.
 It been so long I almost forgot the pics...

[Bob Barnes]

MT-13 Takedown Bow Sleeve Glue in 5 oz tubes is what 3 Rivers sells for the sleeves.

[PEARL DRUMS]

MT13 is what I had the best luck with. I had a few failures before I bought MT13.

[Pat B]

oK guys, thanks. Sounds like it's MT13.

[bradsmith2010]

Look in good

[Handforged]

oK guys, thanks. Sounds like it's MT13.

Pat are these only glued in place? Seems to me a mechanical connection, a pin or couple of pins would be needed along with the glue. It would certainly prevent failure if the glue didn't hold. I can't imagine a 1/8" brass or stainless pin would cause any issue in the sleeve location but would give a good amount of stability to it. Just random thoughts from a blacksmith who has never made a take down so, a grain of salt.

[HH~]

Look gud thus far Pat.

HH~

[PatM]

Not sure how much you cut into the back for the male section.  People talk of them popping apart there if the bend goes into the fades at all.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Put me down for once. Lesson learned.

[Pat B]

Handforged, Both pieces of the sleeve, one steel one brass, fit the tenon on the bow quite tightly. I'll have a problem getting them apart to glue them. A pin in part of the outer sleeve(steel) might be an option but one in the brass(inner) might hamper the assembly/disassemble because of their close fit. I'm going to have to polish the outside of the brass piece to ease the assembly/disassembly(takedown feature).       
 A question For our yew experts...This bow will be about 66"t/t(64"n/n), about 1 1/4" wide at the fades and so far out until the last 6" of each tip. Draw weight will be 45#-55#@26" to 28". My question is how thick should(can) the sapwood be. Now it's about 3/8" thick. Would 1/4" be better? There are a couple of 1/4" knots but nothing I'm worrying about.
  Pat, I'm using 3" fades to hopefully alleviate any chance of that.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Pat I would prefer the 1/4" sapwood. I like at least 2/3 of the limbs to be heartwood. You will probably have a thickness of at least 5/8" when your done.

[Pat B]

That's what I was thinking, Pearlie but wanted a little reassurance. 
Thanks

[bownarra]

I agree wit htose dimensions and definitely the bending into the fades at all....my failure was because I braced it too early forcing the fades to bend. They were the nicest osage billets I've ever had as well and it still pains me to think about it!
Good plan with the three inch fade length and your width taper is also a good idea for the same reason.
As long as the ends of the billets are super dry (so no further shrinkage over the years) and you use MT13 I've found pins to be unnecessary.

[Pappy]

Be gentle with the sleeves Pat, if you have to to much polishing to get them to fit, they will tick or even pop when you shoot it, so gentle is the key, no tapping or clamping. Pappy

[Pat B]

bownarra, these billets are quite dry.
 Yeah, Pappy, I've heard the horror stories. I can see slight rub marks on the brass sleeve when I pull it apart so that's where I'll use very fine emery cloth to polish it lightly. I was gentile enough getting both pieces fitted so neither part warped while fitting.