Yew flat bow questions.

[Handforged]

I'll start by saying I don't have a lot of experience with yew. Only making one other bow before this one that failed on me before I could finish it. The flat bow that I am working on now is 60" nock to nock and I am down to the point of fine tiller on it now. I am planning tip overlays as I have it tapered down to 1/2" at the tips plus I think it looks nice. Here are some questions I have, maybe you guys can help out.

1. This stave has some slight reflex in one limb. Maybe 2" from the tip it has about 1/2" of natural reflex. Would it be smarter to straighten it or go ahead and add more reflex then mimic it on the other side?

2. I will need to steam this one no matter as it has a little wiggle that I placed right at the handle to make it easier to remove. Would you do this before or after straightening/ reflexing the tips.

3. Tip overlays before or after reflexing possibly?

4. My original intention was to back this bow, no reason in particular I just "like" sinew backing. I know that this would need to be done after straitening and reflexing but I've never done tip overlays with a sinew back. Some advice there would be nice.

5. I realize this a shorter bow, adding reflex should I decide to go that way will add what realistically? I am only looking for about 50# at 28" from this bow if possible.

thanks for any help

[Bryce]

1. Yep reflex that other limb to match:)

2. What do you mean ‘little wiggle’ in what orientation?

3. I put overlays on when I get to about 18” of the tiller, when the chances of the stave becoming a bow are pretty high. I don’t wanna waste time putting on overlays if the bow is gonna be garbage.

4. Yeah you can do sinew with overlays. I would put the overlays Down first so it won’t get in the way when laying down your backing.

5. Well the sinew will add a little reflex in for you. #50@28” for a 60”ntn yew is very doable. For that I’d leave those limbs about 1.5” wide. And I would also suggest like a west coast or Nootka style nock(bout 3/4” wide tapered peg nock) while make for some good lines and sinewing.

Anyways hope that helps. I’m sure other will chime it with what they would do. Great thing about a forum.

- Bryce

[Handforged]

I followed the crown on this stave, so the tips ended up being slightly offset. Not very much, maybe 3/4" from nock to nock. I can steam the handle and pull that out no problem, I was just throwing it in there.

[simson]

+ 1
what Bryce said. Not sure about sinewing a bow with 60" long ...

What is the reason for the backing?

[Bryce]

+ 1
what Bryce said. Not sure about sinewing a bow with 60" long ...

What is the reason for the backing?

If anything I’d go with silk, rawhide if he wants. But he said he just likes sinew.

[Handforged]

backing is just for fun! I do it because I can more than anything.

[Handforged]

Here is where I am with it currently. temporary nocks and string. 4.5" brace height. I'm fine tillering now and I realize I have a couple of flat spots that I am dealing with now. So far I am tickled with it.  I've strung and shot a few arrows with it since these pictures and the one thing I can say is that it is FAST. Much faster than my 67" osage bow at the same poundage of 47# roughly.  The tips are at 3/4" and I noticing that one limb has developed some deflex, not sure how that happened as when I started it had reflex.  I am still wondering the advantages of steaming and reflexing this one. I do have a little straightening to do with the steamer to get it "perfectly" straight but it isn't much. As it is the string is for the most part centerline as is.  I just wanted a few pictures here for you guys to see what I see.  Not sure why it posted the pictures all wonky, sorry about that.