Non-Backed Red Oak Board Bow

[5up3rm4n]

I have another piece of oak that i ripped off of the first one, the grain runs slightly diagonal from the corner to about half way on the opposite side(when looking at the end cut) without the "flames". the side grain on both sides are parallel with very little, if any, run out...is that a better choice, or forego this board altogether?

[silent sniper]

Either of those pieces might work out if you add a 1/8” quarter sawn hickory or maple backing. Not sure if that’s the route you want to go, but it should make a decent bow as long as your backing is good. I would also recommend adding a power lam under the backing to help keep the handle from popping off

Hope this helps,
Taylor.   

[Eric Krewson]

I am going to offer a couple of suggestions, you do have to back your board, your handle transition to the limbs is much too abrupt, it WILL pop off.

As for the handle I have found if you put down a couple of 1/8" lams between your handle piece and the limbs and make your fades about 2 1/2" long your handle will stay on.

Like this, I have posted this many times before.

[willie]

I have another piece of oak that i ripped off of the first one, the grain runs slightly diagonal from the corner to about half way on the opposite side(when looking at the end cut) without the "flames". the side grain on both sides are parallel with very little, if any, run out...is that a better choice, or forego this board altogether?

not sure what you are saying as you can tell little about the grain from the end cut. some use the term grain and rings lines interchangeably but they are not the same thing and makes these discussions confusing. you can tell something about the grain from some views of the ring lines, but not everything

a pic would help

[mmattockx]

As for the handle I have found if you put down a couple of 1/8" lams between your handle piec and the limbs and make your fades about 2 1/2" long your handle will stay on.

Eric, assuming the laminations are of similar hardness/stiffness wood as the handle wood, what do you feel they are doing for you in that assembly? Unless the glue is less stiff than the wood there should be no difference between a solid handle piece and the laminated one from what I can see. The more gradual fades will make a major difference to how well the stresses are transferred into the handle and if it stays on or not.


Mark

[aznboi3644]

I believe the multiple thin lams create greater strength in the glue lines also, further preventing the handle from popping off.  That’s all I can think of.  I wouldn’t ever try to make a unbacked board bow if the lines on all the sides didn’t run the length of the bow.  Those boards are destined for unbacked failure.

[George Tsoukalas]

Look at the edge grain. Look for straight or nearly straight. A couple of run outs per limb are ok.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/boards.html

[Eric Krewson]

It appears the lams can bend a little, separate of the main handle piece, all I know for sure is they work to keep a handle on. I never analyze bow making into the small individual parts, if it works it works, if it doesn't it doesn't.

[5up3rm4n]

Ill post pictures of the 8 foot length tomorrow and ill try to show it in all details, then you guys can tell me where to use from that length or if i should find a new board

Thanks for all the insight.

[mmattockx]

It appears the lams can bend a little, separate of the main handle piece, all I know for sure is they work to keep a handle on.

Interesting. If the lams move separate from the main handle then that is due to the glue being weaker or less rigid than the wood or the lams are weaker/less rigid wood than the main handle. I like the laminations because they offer the chance to use different woods and increase the eye appeal with some colour and contrast.


Mark

[5up3rm4n]

So here it is...backed by fiberglass mesh...drawing 35# at 25"...need to tiller a little bit more and need a bow string. It has a natural 2.5" set to the unstrung bow. its 62" NtN. its 1.75" wide at the fades up to about 13" on the bottom limb ant 14.5 on the top limb and narrows out to .75 at the tips. the handle is 4" long and 1.25" wide with 2" fades off of each end of the handle. Heres the pics. Opinions?
,

[BeePrimitive]

  I am new to bow building too but I can speak on this just a tiny bit. My first attempt was with a red oak board that I got from Home Depot. I read a ton of posts on here about building bows and tried to find all I could about picking the right grain. So, I was pretty confident when I found a board with seemingly straight grain.
  I cut out the profile and started working down the wood a little at a time. My goal was around 65 lbs at 28 inches. I tillered and tillered and got it to bending really well! Everything was looking good. I got it to about 60 or 62 lbs at 24 inches. I was so close and then all of a sudden it snapped. It broke right down the grain. The grain that my untrained eye didn’t see cut across the board. I’m still not sure exactly what happened but I assume that, though it looked good, it was slowly weakening as I tried to get it to my goal. My brother got a pretty nice eyebrow scar from the exploding bow.  I was bummed and took a break but I am back at it now.
  My point is not to compare my board to yours because broken is broken. My point is that there is a ton of good resources and “teachers” on this site and a few of them have given their advice. Honestly, you will find most of the information you need to get you on the right track but I totally understand needing to see or feel for yourself before doing it different!

https://i.imgur.com/WgpAkLx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8vc80bX.jpg

[RyanY]

I’m surprised it’s holding together. Sounds like a lot of set for that design. I would narrow the tips to at least 1/2” wide starting the taper from 6-8” from the nocks. Where’s the tiller pic?

[5up3rm4n]

I'll post tiller pics in the morning. Thanks. Unfortunately i only have paracord for the tillering and dint want to go too far before i got a proper bowstring...online looking for one now.

[StickMark]

Bows that blow up can hurt.  Also, in the scheme of things, wood is cheap.  I wasted time on crappy, in hindsight, boards. Kiln  Dried out too far oak, weak in grain hickory, b.s. maple board, etc...My second bow ever, bendy handle from a Ft Worth lumber yard, took set, but is going after8 years.  Must be great grain!  My suggestion is keep building, get great boards, and you'll be much better off.