Best Finish

[Scallorn]

  I'm sure this has already been discussed,  but I'm curious about y'alls opinion on finishing osage.
I have a new bow finished and I need to seal it. Obviously the quickest method would be to use a spray on finish, but I want to use what's most effective. Thoughts?

[Pappy]

I use gun stock Tru Oil. 6 or 7 coats hand rubber in.
 Pappy

[Pat B]

I also use Tru Oil like Pappy. On hunting bows I do a quick spray satin poly over the Tru Oil to cut the shine.

[Handforged]

be wary of a good many "spray on" type finishes. They will look good for a few weeks and then crack and discolor. Tru oil will seal and treat the wood, remain flexible and essentially last forever is applied correctly.  Hard to beat for 6.00 a bottle that will probably finish 5 or 6 bows.

[mmattockx]

How does Tru Oil compare to tung oil, especially the tung oil 'finishes' that have drying additives in the mix? I've used a couple different brands that worked well on tool handles and other similar surfaces but none of them have needed to be weather proofed to a great degree. Does Tru Oil end up as glossy as tung oil after a few coats?


Mark

[Pat B]

I think of tung oil as a penetrating oil that enhances the wood grain. I imagine is has some moisture resistance. Tru Oil is a surface treatment with limited penetration. Tru Oil will repel water because it builds up a water proof coating with multiple thin layers. Tru Oil does have a very glossy finish so to eliminate the shine I give the bow a quick spray of satin poly.

[Weylin]

You can also polish the final coat of tru oil with oil and pumice powder to get a satin glow instead of the glossy finish.

[chamookman]

I used Mimwax Spar Urethane from a rattle can for many years with no problem. Wirwicki used the same stuff in a dip tube - Great stuff ! Bob

[PEARL DRUMS]

Helmsman in a rattle can. Its UV resistant, 100% waterproof, very fast drying and will last a very long time. Its made to be outdoors and take a beating. I like the clear satin and use it on nearly all of my personal bows. Its not cheap, but good stuff never is.

[smoke]

TruOil is good stuff.  I've used Weylin' technique to cut the shine and it works great and is very easy (Thanks Weylin!).

[Eric Krewson]

Back in the day I used the massy finish of two ton epoxy dissolved in acetone, it was the most bullet proof finish I have ever used.

I used it on arrows as well and could lose one under the grass, find it 6 months later and find the feathers might be gone but the arrow shaft was like new.

This finish takes awhile to put on, one quick coat at a time before the acetone evaporates, what you mix up wil go bad in a week or so.

I am not as dedicated as I once was, I use tru-oil now.

[WhistlingBadger]

Could you give a tru-oil finish a quick going over with fine steel wool to dull the shine, or would that destroy the  finish?

[bassman]

Tru Oil is good stuff. You can use extra fine steel wool, and get a satin finish on it. I have used it on different gun stocks as well as self bows, and glass bows. When I don't have it on stock I use 3 to 4 coats of shellac , and then Min Wax Poly which also works well , and fine steel wool also gets you a satin finish.

[Scallorn]

  Thanks for all the input. It sounds like the general consensus is for Tru-Oil
  I happen to have a new bottle in my gun cleaning kit and I'll just use a few coats of it.

[Eric Krewson]

I have posted this before; Don't pull off the aluminum seal in your bottle of tru-oil, just poke a tiny pin hole in it and store you bottle up side down when not in use. This way the contents won't gum up even if it takes you a year to use the bottle up.