Backing and safety

[Pat B]

I was referring to hard backings like boo, hickory or other woods. Soft backings are a different story. Some just add safety, others safety, durability and performance. With a good stave I prefer an unbacked selfbow over any other.
 DC, I think when exercising you are also educating the wood to bend and recover. Generally when exercising you start off short and slow and work up to full draw, at least that's how I do it and the release(let down)is slower, softer. When shooting you pull to full draw and release. That seems to me to be more drastic.

[WhistlingBadger]

If a bow really lets go it will cut through rawhide like it's paper. Not saying it doesn't help, It does, but the stave or board needs to have good integrity in it's own right for the rawhide to really be helpful.

So, if a bow has to have good integrity (i.e. it has to work fine and be safe without backing) what is the point of a soft backing?  It doesn't improve performance, so I always assumed the rawhide was on there for safety.

[bownarra]

If a bow really lets go it will cut through rawhide like it's paper. Not saying it doesn't help, It does, but the stave or board needs to have good integrity in it's own right for the rawhide to really be helpful.

True.
If you want a bow that can't lift a splinter and break it really is simple - sinew back it.
It's very easy to do. Your first go may not look perfect but it will have no ability to break in tension and give you a whack.

[George Tsoukalas]

I always recommend beginners to choose straight grained boards and back them with linen, silk or burlap for safety. At least, the first few.  More on my site. Jawge

http://traditionalarchery101.com

Jawge

[Weylin]

If a bow really lets go it will cut through rawhide like it's paper. Not saying it doesn't help, It does, but the stave or board needs to have good integrity in it's own right for the rawhide to really be helpful.

So, if a bow has to have good integrity (i.e. it has to work fine and be safe without backing) what is the point of a soft backing?  It doesn't improve performance, so I always assumed the rawhide was on there for safety.

It's a good question. If the bow is truly fine on it's own without a backing then it shouldn't have one, unless it's there for decoration. The bow will be more efficient without it. I often back osage and yew bows with rawhide if I'm sending them to a dry climate. They are perfectly good bows and wouldn't need a backing here on the east coast but if they're heading to Utah then having their tension strength bolstered with some rawhide seems prudent. Sometimes I reduce the sapwood on a yew bow and if it has a few pin knots I feel a little more comfortable if it has some rawhide on the back for some extra insurance. Sometimes I build a bow that is pushing the limits of reasonable length and i want to feel confident it will still last a long time so I back it.  It's those kind of situations that lead me to use rawhide backing. If I have serious doubts about a bow because of dangerous knots, splinters lifting, etc. They just don't get to be a bow in the end, backing or not. It's not worth the risk.

[willie]

linen, silk or burlap for safety.

But do these actually keep the bow together during a blow-up? I have heard opinions both ways.

Undoubtedly good stave choice and safety equipment is prudent if your are concerned about getting whacked on the head, but hopefully this discussion can move beyond that. It would be interesting to hear of actual examples of the backed bows that held together and the backed bows that didn't, as WB has some very reasonable concerns and might like to judge from others real life bow failures.

[WhistlingBadger]

But do these actually keep the bow together during a blow-up? I have heard opinions both ways.

Undoubtedly good stave choice and safety equipment is prudent if your are concerned about getting whacked on the head, but hopefully this discussion can move beyond that. It would be interesting to hear of actual examples of the backed bows that held together and the backed bows that didn't, as WB has some very reasonable concerns and might like to judge from others real life bow failures.

 

[George Tsoukalas]

The first priority is to choose a good, straight  grained board. Then beginners should back for safety. In my early days I remember silk keeping a black locust bow's splinters down. I think it was my third bow. Jawge

[bradsmith2010]

My rawhide backed bows had so few failures over the last 30 years,,..that is my reference,,,and that pope and young stated their failures were reduced when they started rawhide backing,, really hard to prove,..I have made bows from staves that had to many issues to attempt a self bow,...and they were a success with backing,,,,etc etc etc

[willie]

pope and young stated their failures were reduced when they started rawhide backing,

failures reduced seems to indicate that the rawhide added some strength in addition to possibly adding safety by holding the bow together by preventing a back failure. I wonder how thick of a piece they applied ? do you remember where you read that Brad? the thicker the better I suppose, after all those guys were after some serious sized critters.

[bradsmith2010]

I cant remember where, but it always stuck in my mind,, I think it was a book about them,, but I dont have it now,, I think there would be a point of diminishing return on thickness, rawhide can be really thick, deer skin thickness has always worked for me,,

[willie]

I think there would be a point of diminishing return on thickness, rawhide can be really thick,

Diminishing returns on performance and safety also? I'm guessing that if one were to desire more safety, than the thicker the better (even if it tends to slow the arrow somewhat). I am also supposing that if a guy were to put a bit extra thickness of rawhide on the back, the performance hit would be more noticeable with lighter arrows and less so with heavier.

there are two pope books here      https://www.archerylibrary.com/books/

[bradsmith2010]

Easy to test with chronograph