Maple Board Bow Tiller Review

[WhistlingBadger]

Mark, I just want to tell you that I've been lurking on this thread and learning a lot, as I really hope to build a bow like this some day.  So, there you have it:  You really aren't the least experienced person here.  ha ha

[mmattockx]

WB,

Thanks for the support, I know just where you are at. Don't give up on making bows, I have been looking to do it for years now and have several red oak boards I bought 4 years ago intending to get on it back then. Stay with it and things will line up for you eventually.


Mark

[WhistlingBadger]

Thanks for the encouraging word.  Two things stand in my way at the moment: First, don't have a garage or workshop, so I don't have a place to work until the weather warms up.  Second, I suffered a bad concussion a few years ago, and I live in fear of having a bow blow up and whack me in the head.  That would be what is technically known as "a very bad thing."  So I've been reading a lot and trying to decie if this is really something I can/want to try.

Anyway.  I appreciate you and all the other guys on here who share your journeys.  Fascinating stuff.

T

[mmattockx]

Second, I suffered a bad concussion a few years ago, and I live in fear of having a bow blow up and whack me in the head.  That would be what is technically known as "a very bad thing." 

I can see how that would colour your approach. In that case you should look at backing any bow that you do make, just for the extra insurance that any failure will be on the belly side and not involve shrapnel flying everywhere. Using a boardsports helmet while shooting doesn't seem like a bad idea, either.


Mark

[mmattockx]

No tillering shots today, I thinned the lever tips and left everything else alone.

First, a back profile shot since I didn't have one earlier:




The levers from the back and side:






I need to complete thinning the tips a bit more but I wanted to put it on the tree to be sure the levers are still stiff enough after I thinned them down. I plan to reduce the lever thickness in a straight taper from the limb end to the tip and clean up the ends with smooth edges/corners all around.


Mark

[mmattockx]

Finally got a more useful backdrop in place and took pics again with it.


Unbraced:




Braced:




Drawn to 23", with and without the flash:






Mark

[willie]

Hi Mark

easier on the eyes now. Being that your handle width is just a little less than the limb with, I wouldn't be afraid to see if I could do the rest of the req'd tillering on the inner limbs. I'm seeing the right inner needing more scraping than the left inner. But i doesn't take a whole lot of scraping to make thing change in the last few inches. looks good. just curious what you plan to shoot for arrows and how wide is the arrow pass?

[mmattockx]

I wouldn't be afraid to see if I could do the rest of the req'd tillering on the inner limbs. I'm seeing the right inner needing more scraping than the left inner. But i doesn't take a whole lot of scraping to make thing change in the last few inches.

I will work on the inner 1/3 of the limbs and see how it goes. I thought the right looked stronger than the left as well but wanted to see what other eyes saw. Things were starting to move pretty quickly before I got to this point, so I will be careful to sneak up on it as much as possible. I can see it would be very easy to miss your draw weight with just a couple minutes of impatience at this stage.

just curious what you plan to shoot for arrows and how wide is the arrow pass?

Arrows are going to be cheap fibreglass ones to start with while I sort what I need longer term. I am planning on cutting in to 1/8" or so short of center for the pass. Haven't decided if I am going to make a shelf or put a stick on arrow rest on it. The arrow rest is easier but a shelf is more traditional.


Mark

[WhistlingBadger]

Looks great, Mark!

[willie]

fibreglass ones to start with...................I am planning on cutting in to 1/8" or so

the cut in shelf will  make it easier to shoot straight with the arrows you buy off the shelf.
Primitive arrowmaking can be more challenging than primitive bow making.

I can see it would be very easy to miss your draw weight with just a couple minutes of impatience at this stage.

Some claim it is harder to make a lighter weight bow than a heavier weight one because making tillering adjustments on thin limbs can become touchy or finicky.

[mmattockx]

the cut in shelf will  make it easier to shoot straight with the arrows you buy off the shelf.

Yeah, it will be more forgiving that way. The problem with the cheap arrows is you get no spine selection so these will be somewhat stiff for this bow, but more suitable as I work up in weight on future bows. I expect the first couple light bows to end up as 'guest' bows for those who come out to our place and want to try a few shots. Knock around, cheap arrows seem pretty well suited to that duty.

Primitive arrowmaking can be more challenging than primitive bow making.

I have little doubt of that.


Mark

[willie]

The problem with the cheap arrows is you get no spine selection so these will be somewhat stiff for this bow

I think i know the ones you are looking at. I buy them for the kids to loose shoot. you can always add point weight if they fly too stiff.

[mmattockx]

I think i know the ones you are looking at. I buy them for the kids to loose shoot. you can always add point weight if they fly too stiff.

They sound very much the same, with the same mission overall.


Mark

[mmattockx]

I finished the initial tillering today (at least I think I finished...) and got to 26" draw length at 30lb.

Still lowish braced, but after all the scraping was done:




Pulled to the 25" peg hole, which is actually closer to 25.5" draw with the thick handle and the peg diameter added in:






The right limb still looks stiff to me in the pictures, but it was less noticeable standing there looking at it. I took a few scrapes on the strong side of the left limb and managed to remove almost all of the twist that was there. I am pretty happy with that outcome even if I end up at 29lb because of it. I plan to try heat treating the bow as well, so I will likely gain some weight back there if I went too far getting to this point.

My string arrived today, so I will be able to actually string it tomorrow and take some pics with a proper string in place as well as a full draw picture. I have cleaned up the levers and now need to cut the handle and arrow pass in before arrows arrive next week.


Mark

[mmattockx]

Worked on the levers, handle and arrow pass the last couple days. Took forever to get the handle and pass done. I need to find a better way to rough out the arrow pass, working on the side grain on maple was nasty in that small area. Too small for a rasp, too big for a small file, etc. I have seen people say the maple boards in big box stores are soft maple, but if this is soft maple I don't ever want to work on the hard variety.







Mark