White oak - severe checking (pout)

[BigWapiti]

I wrote a similar post a week ago, but didn't get a response.  I think I was too specific in my questions about the oak I cut.   Several weeks ago, I went and cut some Oregon White Oak here in Eastern WA.  I cut two, one 3" diam and another a little over 4" in diam.  Nice straight pieces too.  I glued their ends immediately after they fell - took them home and removed their bark.  I put them in my machine shed (open air), off the ground.  The Ellensburg winds, I thought, would help them dry. 

After returning home from a week long business trip, I found them to be checking wildly.  Not only at the ends, but all through the wood.

I'm looking for some input as I really want to make a oak sapling longbow.  I'm looking for ways that I can dry this wood without it checking so badly.  I know it can be done, as I read that this wood is used for furniture and boat building.

Is checking like this inherant of oak?
Should the bark be left on, as with arrow rose shoots?
Apparently it needs to be dried very slowly - ideas how? (out of the wind/sun would be a start)

I was hoping to get out today and cut another couple saplings - but its snowing like a banchee out there (I went to bed in April, and woke in December).

Thanks all,

Mike

[OldBow]

Most bows I make are from the local trees. I do leave the bark on and seal the ends. Then they dry under my deck in the shade for about a year. I don't have much of a checking problem.

Your storm moved into my area. 70's last weekend....39F today.

[330bull]

Mike,

If you still have access to Vine Maple, I would work with that.  Of course I'm biased but...the beauty of VM is that you can cut it, split it in half, glue the ends and in 3-4 weeks you're ready to make a bow.  And I still believe that VM is still better than anything else.  Right now I'm working on my 4th one in a row and I'm pretty sure I have the process, and design nailed down.  Well...for now.   

My two cents.

Joe

[Pat B]

The problem I see is that you removed the bark too soon without sealing the "back".  What I would do is split the pole lengthwise and either leave the bark on or remove the bark and seal the back and ends. That way the moisture can leave through the split side and what checks occur there(if any) will usually be removed by wood reduction during the layout and tillering.
   Bark is a moisture barrier so by leaving is on the stave the moisture only has one way out...through the belly...and that is the direction with the least negative results.   Pat

[BigWapiti]

Thanks OldBow - I'll give that a try.  But that is soooo loong to wait...   and too, isn't it going to be a bear getting that bark off after a year of being seasoned?  From what I have read, I'll not be chasing a ring on this oak, but using the outer wood as its back.  I suppose I could give my try at backing.

Joe, yeah, I hear you.  I do love working with VM - but I'm out of stock and with all the snow in the mountains, I'm not sure I can even find the bottom of a VM stand right now.   But too, seeing a straight piece of oak had me excited.  I've been wondering what it'd be like to work a straight piece of wood for a change.    Though, I'm with you, there's not much I don't like about working vine maple - even the smell of the shavings has its appeal.  I just want to try something different.

I guess the key to the oak is slow seasoning.  At least, I should keep the bark on longer and keep it out of the wind, in my shop out of the light.

[BigWapiti]

The problem I see is that you removed the bark too soon without sealing the "back".  What I would do is split the pole lengthwise and either leave the bark on or remove the bark and seal the back and ends. That way the moisture can leave through the split side and what checks occur there(if any) will usually be removed by wood reduction during the layout and tillering.
   Bark is a moisture barrier so by leaving is on the stave the moisture only has one way out...through the belly...and that is the direction with the least negative results.   Pat

Pat, thanks.  I was out looking at the poles and thinking the same about maybe needing to seal the back after removing the bark.  My biggest concern is that if I leave the bark on, it will bond tighly to the back making it a bear to remove later.   And if I were to seal the back, presuming TB or parafin wax?  What would that do to my final finish?  that is, how would you recommend I get the sealer off once I get the bow tillered and ready for stain/finish?

I'm liking this thread, these are the questions I've been holding as I read other posts about folks sealing the backs, or leaving the bark on.

Thanks a TON guys!

Will someone make this snow go away??  There's 3" out there and its still coming down!!

[Pat B]

Mike, early in the growing season(late winter/early spring) as the sap rises, the new cambium layer(between last years growth ring and the bark) begins to grow. All during the growing season this cambium layer is soft and the bark should "slip" making it easier to remove. If the tree is cut during this time, usually the bark will be "easier" to remove(even after seasoning) than if the tree was cut during the dormant period(late fall and early to mid winter).
   For sealing bow wood I use spray shellac. To remove it later I either do a light scraping or sanding so not to violate the top ring or use alcohol(the carrier for the shellac) and wipe the shellac off. With shellac you get a quick easy seal on most surfaces and if nothing else, almost any finish will adhere to it.
     Pat

[BigWapiti]

Excellent - thank you Pat.

[Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive]

i always remove the bark this time of year. then i seal it with parrafin. i melt it down and brush it on the back and ends. scraps off easy with a pocket knife and to get than last little bit off, i run it over a fire a couple times quick and wipe the last off with a papertowel.  i have never had a stave check while using parafin. i have never had luck with shellacs or urathanes  or TB.  they always get a few checks, but i know others use it and like it. - Ryan

[waterlogged]

If you can lay out a bow with none of the checks running off the edge, the bow will still work. I have a very highly stressed recurve out of that same oak that I just finished, and it had a check right in the middle of the limb that you could see light through. I've never tried vine maple myself, but I personally love white oak. The stuff's nearly indestructible from what I've seen.

[BigWapiti]

Thanks Waterlogged - since you use this same wood, what method do you use to season w/o checking?  I'm not sure I have an inch of the log that doesn't have a check - they really split themselves up throughout.

I'm liking the sound of keeping the bark on for a year, so long as as Pat says, the bark will slip off okay if its cut in early spring.  The parrafin has its appeal too.  Shellac sounds easy, which fits well into my lazy nature...  I'm still curious on how to remove it so that a stain will penetrate evenly.

Thanks again all.