Witherby draw knife and stave tear-outs.

[artcher1]

Your draw knife may be the problem. If it has a very flat bevel then it's really hard to run a ring. My brother gave me his new draw knife some years ago and for the life of me I couldn't chase a ring. So I went back to my grandfather's old draw knife which was rather old and well worn and I had no problem chasing that ring. It's blade is worn and somewhat rounded, not super sharp, but will chase the finest ring you can find...…...Art

[Eric Krewson]

Leaving a layer or island around the pins is the same as ring violation. Scrape the wood off very carefully, I prefer a round nose card scraper for this work scrape 360 degrees around the knot.

It is the one with the rounded nose in this picture to the right of the drawknife, these came as a set from Lowes.



 

[bjrogg]

I would very carfully from every direction working towards the center of the pin knot and "lightly shave" off the extra rings.

It takes a bit just to get the knack of using a draw knife. It's a fantastic tool though once you master it. There are some woods that it won't work good on though. Elm is really bad at tearing out. Fortunately its a white wood and doesn't need a ring chased.
 You might have some places on belly side that want to tear on you when reducing your stave. When I get reduced to floor tiller I usually switch to farriers rasp and scraper.

Bjrogg

PS  I really don't think Slimbob was trying to make you upset. Sometimes it's hard to figure out exactly what is happening especially without pictures. It is a hobby that you will make mistakes. It is very humbling. Please understand that people will probably point out some problems with your work from time to time. Most of the time they really are trying to help you. Many times because we have made the same mistakes

[Badger]

Gregory, if you are getting tear outs then use the knife with the bevel down and just find the right angle to use it.

[Pat B]

Work the islands around the knots and pins from the center out and around the pin or knot.

[Gregoryv]

Thank all of you very much for all of your help.  My stave is down to one ring today.  One good backing ring!  Now to floor tiller.  I was going to make a long flat bow.  My last question is as per size.  This is what I was going to go with and please correct me as you feel fit.  1 inch handle.  2 inch fades from handle.  1.5 inch at widest for limb out 3/4 of the limb.  Then taper to 3/8 inch. 
Or should I go 1.5 inch out of fades and taper to 3/8 straight from there?  It’s my first bow.  Which would be easier to roller?
Ps I should mark out the bow in pencil. Can I erase it from my back?
Thank you all very much,
Greg

[Eric Krewson]

Go to 1/2" tips to start with, 3/8" is pretty small for a first bow. I start my taper about a foot from the tip on a layout and come back as the bow is reduced to a bow blank and take the transition point down to a gradual taper extending a little more toward the mid limb.

Do you have a tillering gizmo? 

[Gregoryv]

Yes a pull string type but haven’t used it yet.

[Eric Krewson]

Not what a gizmo is, it marks your limbs and tells you where to remove wood for a perfect bend.

There is complete how to make one and use it in the how to section of this site. The pictured one is a fancy one out of burl walnut, you can make one out of pine board that will work just as well.

[Gregoryv]

Ok tyvm!

[bjrogg]

I know those tillering gizmos have helped a lot of both new and old bowyers. I think it would be a good idea to make one and check out how to use it. At least until you get a eye for it.
Bjrogg

[Eric Krewson]

PM me your address Gregory and I will send you a Gizmo, I always have a few extra around. I have some fancy ones made out of curly maple.